Thread: D4 A/C Compressor issue

Originally Posted by josh.huber

If it's filthy, brake clean first then AC flush from the wholesalers, if it's not too bad. Just the flush straight up.

Use with a compressor and the tank type flushing gun

We use shellite.
Easiest way is to suck a few litres into an old 20kg refrigerant bottle,pump up with 200 PSI of nitrogen,if it doesn’t have a liquid valve,tip it upside down and away you go.
Some wholesalers have a little vessel that has a schrader valve on each end and a screw cap,can be used as well,but generally to small for most of our systems.
We also generally cut the system up,and take out the expansion device,did a 30KW AC unit last week,compressor had smashed up,the whole system was filthy.We always fit a new liquid and pipe in a suction drier.Return after a few days,change compressor oil,and depending,replace driers again.

Originally Posted by LuckyLes

Looking at the debris in that oil, I would at least be changing the TX valve. You can't successfully flush the system with the valve in place.

I would try first,we have done it on many occasions,if we have to.

OP has posted again while I was replying and has spoken to his a/c tech who advised him much the same. The difference between an auto car system and a commercial system is accessibility of the components. If he gets to the recharge point and finds that the TX is blocked or jammed, basically he has to start again. Also he is risking passing fine bits of metal through the new compressor that he has paid big bucks for.

So I just put the compressor on the pipe to the condenser, and air comes out the other larger pipe from the cabin, there is restriction that would prevent a high flow flush, but enough to know the tx isnt blocked completely, and maybe enough to do a basic flush...

This is why im not too interested in TX access: (if i had my time again, id have bought 2-300 dollar 7SEU17 pump used/aliexpress in case it does die from contamination)

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You're doing the job and asking for advice. Advice has been given from the start that you haven't taken on board. It's your money, do it whatever way you reckon will fix it.
Done correctly it should last another 10 - 15 years, partially done it may last 10 or more years, or it may last 10 or more days.

Originally Posted by LuckyLes

You're doing the job and asking for advice. Advice has been given from the start that you haven't taken on board. It's your money, do it whatever way you reckon will fix it.
Done correctly it should last another 10 - 15 years, partially done it may last 10 or more years, or it may last 10 or more days.

I know ultimately its a decision ive got to make myself and bear the result. I have actually taken some of the advice given from the start, such as replacing the condenser along with the drier.

If the advice you are thinking of is to just leave it to the 'professionals', cant do that no one around here wants to touch it.

Its not that im not capable of taking the dash apart to get to the TX its more im looking to avoid it if possible. Why do I think I can get away with that ?

Well if you go by the book, as maybe you are suggesting id be tearing the whole interior out to replace the evap too and all the pipes, but thats not going to happen (without trying a pump/condenser swap first).

I hope/suspect that most of the metal if any that got out of the pump will have settled in the bottom of the condenser I swapped.

I also dont think a low pressure flush (with tx valve in place) will clear much other than oil the solvent can dissolve, and like i said, i dont think even a flush without the tx would get rid of all metal in the bottom of the evap (if any) thus the instruction by denso, landrover and triumph rover spares to replace the whole system.

I havent seen any traces of metal at the condenser connections or pump return connection.

Im just as much seeking opinions as much as documenting my process and situation for others, even if it does go right or wrong.

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Originally Posted by haydent

Its probably been low on oil considering small amount I got out so may have lead to failure.

If it has been running with low refrigerant the missing oil is probably in the evaporator, which is another reason it really needs to be flushed.

I checked the amount of oil in the pump 120ml (clear oil) then saw the label on the new pump actually lists it, 130cc (130ml) might get about 10-20ml and dye added with gas.