Thread: New battery for a D4

Hi Paul,

Resetting the BMS when replacing the battery is covered in this thread: Replacement Battery - reset BMS

This from the workshop manual:

8 BATTERY REPLACEMENT
If it is determined that a battery requires replacement, always refer to the appropriate section of the workshop
manual for instructions on removing and installing the battery from the vehicle.
On in service vehicles fitted with a Battery Monitoring System (BMS), the BMS module must be reset following
the installation of a new battery. The BMS module reset procedure must be performed using an approved
diagnostic system.

David

If you have a spare battery or a jump starter you could try plugging it into the vehicle and see if that supplies enough power to keep the vehicle's systems running while you swap the batteries. It may avoid the need to reset various things, including the radio.

Originally Posted by DiscoMick

If you have a spare battery or a jump starter you could try plugging it into the vehicle and see if that supplies enough power to keep the vehicle's systems running while you swap the batteries. It may avoid the need to reset various things, including the radio.

You still need to reset the BMS via a diag tool

Thank you all for the replies. I am a bit up against it - there are no Land Rover dealers near me, and I am heading to Queensland next week. I will do as you suggest, Discomick, and hope for the best. The original battery is a calcium type and I have bought a similar replacement. Or I might just leave in the original battery until I can get to a dealer, and then fit the new battery. At least I will have the new battery on board to deal with a failure of the original battery.
Cheers, Paul

RACQ can supply, fit and program a new AGM battery. Their code is 3888 for a replacement D4 battery.

Scott

Originally Posted by Silenceisgolden

Thank you all for the replies. I am a bit up against it - there are no Land Rover dealers near me, and I am heading to Queensland next week. I will do as you suggest, Discomick, and hope for the best. The original battery is a calcium type and I have bought a similar replacement. Or I might just leave in the original battery until I can get to a dealer, and then fit the new battery. At least I will have the new battery on board to deal with a failure of the original battery.
Cheers, Paul

You got a fantastic run from the last battery,that must be some sort of record for a D3/4.

FWIW,LR used an AGM battery to replace the calcium type.

My D4 similar spec to yours had one fitted under warranty and is now around 5 yrs old.

I also think the D4 2.7 doesn’t have a BMS.The later models and the 3.0l did have them.
I can’t change the type of battery in my spec vehicle using the GAP tool.
Don’t know if there is any reset either,I don’t think there is,unlike later spec vehicles.

Originally Posted by scarry

You got a fantastic run from the last battery,that must be some sort of record for a D3/4.

FWIW,LR used an AGM battery to replace the calcium type.

My D4 similar spec to yours had one fitted under warranty and is now around 5 yrs old.

I also think the D4 2.7 doesn’t have a BMS.The later models and the 3.0l did have them.
I can’t change the type of battery in my spec vehicle using the GAP tool.
Don’t know if there is any reset either,I don’t think there is,unlike later spec vehicles.

Thanks Scarry, that is good to know. Knowing it doesn't have a BMS I will feel confident to just change the battery with power applied as Discomick suggested. Yes, it has been a good run, but I do expect that. My Defender battery just died at 12 years, but it was sitting for four weeks while I was away. The important thing is to NEVER drain the batteries, this is what depletes their lives. In normal use, for which they are designed, they are never drained. It is one thing to drain a deep cycle battery even down to 12 volts, but it is a killer for old style cranking batteries.
Thanks again everyone.
Cheers, Paul

Originally Posted by Silenceisgolden

Thanks Scarry, that is good to know. Knowing it doesn't have a BMS I will feel confident to just change the battery with power applied as Discomick suggested. Yes, it has been a good run, but I do expect that. My Defender battery just died at 12 years, but it was sitting for four weeks while I was away. The important thing is to NEVER drain the batteries, this is what depletes their lives. In normal use, for which they are designed, they are never drained. It is one thing to drain a deep cycle battery even down to 12 volts, but it is a killer for old style cranking batteries.
Thanks again everyone.
Cheers, Paul

If you mount a solar panel on your roof rack connected through a regulator to the starting battery you will never have this problem again.