Thread: MY12 D4 - individual doors not locking or unlocking

Originally Posted by twr7cx

Our MY12 has developed a new trick where not all the doors are locking or unlocking.

When locking the vehicle all doors lock except for the drivers side rear passenger door which can be opened (on doing so the alarm sounds). If this door is manually locked from inside then it cannot be opened externally.

When unlocking only the drivers front door and the tailgate/tall door unlock. All other stay locked. They can be manually unlocked from inside the cabin and then the external door handles operate.

A scan using the IID Tool provided:



After clearing those and having a play with the doors, locks and the SmartKey and then scanning again it provided:



B110A-11 (2F) Rear door driver side central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground, U2101-00 (0F) Control module configuration incompatible, B1109-11 (2F) Passenger's door central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground and B110B-11 (2F) Rear door passenger side central locking motor - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground are common faults to both scans.

Any insights in how to resolve? From what I have read the door lock actuators have a high failure rate on the D3/4. When they fail, do they result in error codes such as the above? I.e. would the above error codes be caused by those three doors having failed actuators so the solution is to just replace them (e.g. following DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Replacing door latch / window regulator - Now with guide ), or would it be something more sinister?


There was also a Check Engine Light issue faults due to the 'Intake air temperature sensor 1' that I assume is a seperate issue so have not quoted above, and have posted about in https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disc...ml#post2890193

I had a similar problem with the driver’s door I cleared all faults and after an interstate drive the problem hasn’t come up again so I put it to some issue with my car battery. I have also reprogrammed all my keys with the IIDTOOL as I got a 3rd key and noticed that all keys respond better now, when previously I thought I had battery problems in the keys as I had to press lock/unlock buttons multiple times to get them to work.

I don't know about D4s, but when one of the rear doors on my Defender stopped working on the remote, but could be locked manually, it turned out to be that a wire which runs through a conduit from the centre pillar to the door had broken. Reconnecting the wire fixed the problem.
Does your D4 have a wire running through a conduit from the centre pillar to the door? Might be worth checking.

Originally Posted by goofyr

I have also reprogrammed all my keys with the IIDTOOL as I got a 3rd key and noticed that all keys respond better now, when previously I thought I had battery problems in the keys as I had to press lock/unlock buttons multiple times to get them to work.

I just programmed two new keys with the IIDTool and they have the same issue.


Watched a couple of YouTube videos about the failed door lock actuators in D3/4's and looks to me like that's likely what the problem is as the interior lock latch does move just a tad from the motor which is what they generally did in the videos of the failed units too. I've seen some discussion about it generally being the motor brushes that go and that they're a fairly common standard size so will pull one out and take a look.

It is not so much that the the brushes go, they just gunk up, I pulled one apart and cleaned up the brushes about 5 years ago and it is still going, in the mean time the replacement actuator (bought on aliexpress) still sits in the drawer.

Originally Posted by kenl

It is not so much that the the brushes go, they just gunk up, I pulled one apart and cleaned up the brushes about 5 years ago and it is still going, in the mean time the replacement actuator (bought on aliexpress) still sits in the drawer.

Handy to know.

I noticed last night that Aliexpress has them available for dirt cheap. Any thoughts on the build quality? From the number of failures it would seem that genuine quality is a bit lacking anyways...

I haven't had the opportunity to compare them side by side but the new unit looks good and seems well put together. I would not be at all surprised if they are from the same factory, I also recall that the same unit is used in other cars as well? But not sure on that one..

Originally Posted by kenl

I also recall that the same unit is used in other cars as well? But not sure on that one..

I believe D3/4, Disco Sport and RR Evoque.

I think I posted a thread on this a few months back. $50 or so on eBay for a door lock actuator and 45 mins to replace, maybe 1 hr if first time...