sounds like alternator.
what makes you think this is odd?
2006 V8 D3. Has been ticking along pretty well until this afternoon. I noticed the engine seemed to be 'roaring', perhaps the radiator fan? And then the battery light started to come on and off at strange intervals, and the voltmeter on the main battery reading 11.9V while driving.
Managed to get home ok. Popped the bonnet. Battery reads 12.3V with the engine off. With the engine running, drops to 11.9V. Belts seem fine. Cables to the alternator & battery seem fine.
One code on the nanocom that's relevant P0626 Generator Field Terminal - circuit high (Intermittent).
I mean, seems like the alternator to me, but I never get tired of discovering the ways in which modern cars can do odd things.
Any other thoughts as to what it might be? The only thing I haven't tried yet is reading the voltage directly off the alternator post.
sounds like alternator.
what makes you think this is odd?
Current Cars:
2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
2008 RRS, TDV8
1995 VS Clubsport
Previous Cars:
2008 ML63, V8
2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion
I don't think this is odd if it's just the alternator. Just saying I've seen some strange causes of symptoms form modern cars, and not to necessarily trust my first thoughts.
If your vehicle has a variable output alternator, then it will vary it's output depending on the needs of the vehicle and battery. If they have plenty of charge, the alternator will reduce its output.
I'm not an auto-electrician, but I think if the battery is up around 80%, the alternator may cut it's output. 12.3 is about that level.
With volts readings like that I'd say it's the alternator. I'm no expert in LR but I've never owned a car that measured less than 13.4 volts regardless of battery state of charge.
The reason it reads less when running is because you car engine is now pulling current out of the battery. That's a net loss.
It won't be long before you have a flat battery.
Have a read of this thread:
Alternator - Various Fault Codes
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Have a look at this. First couple of minutes. Similar symptoms, due to the diode failing.
YouTube
MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.
Hi Pinelli, D3 alternators will operate somewhere around 13.5v to 15.5v, but 15.5v is usually only in very cold conditions.
While D4 alternators can drop to 12.2v, this is normally only for a very short time and is something that only happens periodically, when the BMS wants to test the cranking battery’s condition.
So to be as low as 11.9v is well and truely below normal operating voltages.
As others have posted, I would start with getting your alternator tested.
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