Thread: Dual battery system

What I find hard to fathom is why buy one of the most expensive 4WDs on the market with arguably the best off road ability and suspension to "die for" and then go cheap on accessories? It seems very short sighted. There are very good reasons why Tim developed the Traxide and it is both brand and model specific, not some generic "clone" that will not do the job properly. The trouble with modern cars is that the electronics have gone way beyond just connect everything back to a battery with a wire. Sometimes (and I am not saying this is that case here) people buy a product that they really cannot afford to own, operate and maintain. Perhaps an 80 series LC would be a better option with its basic electrical systems?

Plus there's the added benefit of supporting an AUS made product here with Traxide. And Tim will answer the phone when you ring and answer any queries you have.

Originally Posted by dirvine

Sometimes (and I am not saying this is that case here) people buy a product that they really cannot afford to own, operate and maintain. Perhaps an 80 series LC would be a better option with its basic electrical systems?

Ouch. So you save up to buy what you think is a nice car, but before you make that mistake nobody explained that they are overcomplicated, fragile and therefore quite likely to cost far and above a more reliable vehicle to maintain. They come here for advice and get "sorry, you are too poor to afford a Landrover, maybe a Toyota would be more your price range".

All class.

Originally Posted by BradC

Ouch. So you save up to buy what you think is a nice car, but before you make that mistake nobody explained that they are overcomplicated, fragile and therefore quite likely to cost far and above a more reliable vehicle to maintain. They come here for advice and get "sorry, you are too poor to afford a Landrover, maybe a Toyota would be more your price range".

All class.

Read my post nothing about a Toyota being "cheaper" just that an 80 series has simple electrics. I could have said a series LR instead but they are not as comfortable as a the brand I mentioned. However as you say you save up for a nice car, then one of your due diligence would be to investigate costs or running it, maintaining it and other criteria. There is plenty written about the cost of maintaining a LR and the costs associated with keeping them on the road. Even if you discounted all the negative information of owning a LR by 50% it is quite clear they are not a cheap car to maintain. I would dearly like to own a Mclaren but I know I just could not afford to maintain it and run it, hence I lowered my sights to something else...and it was not my Discovery!!

Originally Posted by dirvine

Sometimes (and I am not saying this is that case here) people buy a product that they really cannot afford to own, operate and maintain. Perhaps an 80 series LC would be a better option with its basic electrical systems?

AND

Originally Posted by BradC

Ouch. So you save up to buy what you think is a nice car, but before you make that mistake nobody explained that they are overcomplicated, fragile and therefore quite likely to cost far and above a more reliable vehicle to maintain. They come here for advice and get "sorry, you are too poor to afford a Landrover, maybe a Toyota would be more your price range".

All class.

I think this is two extremes of the same thing.

Time to let him decide for himself, as he has received lots of advice.

Originally Posted by BradC

Ouch. So you save up to buy what you think is a nice car, but before you make that mistake nobody explained that they are overcomplicated, fragile and therefore quite likely to cost far and above a more reliable vehicle to maintain. They come here for advice and get "sorry, you are too poor to afford a Landrover, maybe a Toyota would be more your price range".

All class.

Additionally, what has the cost of the car got to do with the cost of additions? Whether the car cost $10,000 or $100,000 the cost of any addition is is still a cost.

As the OP says, he doesn't have a great need for a full bells and whistles dual battery system and therefore doesn't see the 'value' in Tim's system. I use my fridge as a freezer and will have a winch so I will see value in Tim's system so will probably go that way when I do fit a system in my new car, but I get the investigation into other options to suit a different need.

I just have the basic redarc isolator, it’s does everything I need. I like my starter staying fully charged and haven’t seen the need to use the starter capacity when I’m touring.

I have
1 x 120amp/hr AGM
1 x redarc isolator
15/75 Victron Controller
2 x 125w of solar on the roof
1 x 125w folding solar blanket for when we are parked up in the shade.

My previous car I had a traxide SC80 and I believe it’s now running in a different car.

I have an 18yo defender, I typically purchase the top end of town bolt ons well except for the isolator. No kings two bob stuff on mine.

Just thinking King’s would also have an isolator that would be low cost and do the job.

Originally Posted by Dagilmo

As the OP says, he doesn't have a great need for a full bells and whistles dual battery system and therefore doesn't see the 'value' in Tim's system.

This is the incorrect information I was trying to address.
Originally linked Narva isolator with some cable - $139
Traxide SC80 isolator with a bit less cable - $165

Yes there are also more expensive "kits" available from Traxide which include various extra components (battery tray, pre-cut wiring, etc) but that not apples-with-apples.

SC80 | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321327573851

Regards,
Scott