Thread: ZF6 gear box service and metal pan change over. On a D4

Originally Posted by coopers1969

Well I recon I am 2 thirds the way through doing the gear box service all going ok, accept I thought I was being clever by not removing the center brace which was fine I have been able to get the plastic pan out but I can’t get the metal pan in ahhh oh well take the brace out should go in easily and access to those bolts will be a lot easier also. I have flushed 8 litres of fluid though so far and it oil looks a lot better after the flush.
So will update once I am finished and gone to a test drive.

Undo the rear bolt, lift the rear of the gearbox up and wedge a suitable socket in under the alloy mounting bracket. Bring the pan up 90 degree to normal, then turn into place. Another tip to avoid the filter from dropping down while maneuvering the pan into place is to completely dry all oil from the pickup gallery in the trans case, push filter into place and quickly fit pan.

Ok not sure what I have done but I am under the understanding. When the transmission gets to temp 35 degrees measure via a IIDTOOL undo the filler whole and continue to fill until it starts to dribble out. I was filling via the garden spray at the front of the car at first When I went to check the level about 5 litres came out. Have I missed something or did I just over fill it.

Was the engine running with the transmission in gear?

Originally Posted by coopers1969

When I went to check the level about 5 litres came out. Have I missed something or did I just over fill it.

Did you turn the engine off to check the level? If so, that's why all the oil came out. You do the final filling and checking with it running...
Also refit the fill plug while it's still running. Don't turn off until it's all sealed up or oil will come back out.

Coincidentally, I serviced my zf 6hp26 transmission (RRS) during last week.

I followed this youtube link and shows you exactly what to do.
YouTube
I used BBS Faultmate MSV2 extreme with V1.33 that has the upgrade to monitor oil temp.

Because I removed the valve/mechatronic assembly to changeout the seals, I needed to remove the rear crossmember and mount
This made refitting the pan a breeze. Also used a rubber gasket this time. It sealed fist go unlike the fibre one I used last time

Originally Posted by coopers1969

Ok not sure what I have done but I am under the understanding. When the transmission gets to temp 35 degrees measure via a IIDTOOL undo the filler whole and continue to fill until it starts to dribble out. I was filling via the garden spray at the front of the car at first When I went to check the level about 5 litres came out. Have I missed something or did I just over fill it.

You refill the sump without the engine running, initially. Takes about 3.5 l Vehicle must be level
Put the fill plug in and start the engine (fill plug is on the rear RH side of housing not the large one in the metal pan)
With the brakes on (dont move the wheels) cycle through the gears, reverse, N, Drive, then manually select as many gears as you can (I could only get to 3) 3 seconds in each position and return to PARK
Let the temp rise at idle to about 30 to 40 ( it took me 15 min to get to 37 on a cool day)
Remove filler plug and add oil till constant dribble ( I used a total of 6.8 l to get to this point)
Replace plug
Turn off engine

Exactly what Grappler said

Originally Posted by coopers1969

Ok not sure what I have done but I am under the understanding. When the transmission gets to temp 35 degrees measure via a IIDTOOL undo the filler whole and continue to fill until it starts to dribble out. I was filling via the garden spray at the front of the car at first When I went to check the level about 5 litres came out. Have I missed something or did I just over fill it.

Just a point for discussion.....I wonder if this fluid loss could be due to the filter not being plugged into its housing properly