Thread: Zf 6hp mechatronic valve body seals?

On the D4 just drop the cross member out of the way, and jack the transmission up about 50mm. This gives you access to get the pan and VB out. The exhaust doesn't need to be moved. The mechatronic is off on one side on the outside of the transmission housing, and you'll need to cut a zip tie or two to get some wiring out of the way and grow some double jointed 4 knuckle fingers to make it easier.

Originally Posted by janousek

Hi there,
I have a quick question to those who managed to replace mechatronic connector sleeve and valve body seals.
I have steel pan already installed. If i was to attempt a DIY, do I have to remove exhaust and cross member to access the valve body?
Thnx

If yours is a petrol then i believe the exhaust needs to be dropped for access.

Originally Posted by janousek

If i was to attempt a DIY, do I have to remove exhaust and cross member to access the valve body?

Depends - what vehicle? D3 or 4? V8 or diesel V6? No need to keep us guessing...

Apologies I forgot to mention the most important, its 2007 D3 petrol @150k.

Also just for the records, the car has developed a downshift behaviour a while ago which is most annoying during start stop. Thump and jerk perhaps best description. Also doesn’t matter how fast I ago, I feel slight engine breaks the moment I pull my feet from the pedal.
There is no error code and regular auto service did not cure the problem hence next in line is seals.
Thnx

Originally Posted by janousek

Apologies I forgot to mention the most important, its 2007 D3 petrol @150k.

Also just for the records, the car has developed a downshift behaviour a while ago which is most annoying during start stop. Thump and jerk perhaps best description. Also doesn’t matter how fast I ago, I feel slight engine breaks the moment I pull my feet from the pedal.
There is no error code and regular auto service did not cure the problem hence next in line is seals.
Thnx

I have similar symptoms but no judder at all so will be doing mine as well, going to put a steel pan on and new filter first to see if its blocked after doing a flush.

That rough shifting is because the valve body is most likely suffering from leaking end of line seals and at the other end the little rubber accumulators are worn out. A Sonnax zipkit is the best bet, no amount of flushing will cure it. The kit includes new end of line seals, upgraded clutch cylinder seals and proper spring and cup accumulators, not spongy rubber ones.

while you’re there, replace the valve body seals, mechatroinc and solenoids, pump seal and gaskets, you’ll be glad you did.

just my 2c worth

Thnx for the Sonnax advice, I may just do that as well - depending on how hard it is.
I checked the sonnax web site last night. Apparently there are 2 types of kit for gen 1 and gen 2 vb. There are also set of instructions to determine which type is needed. I may be wrong but I believe I need to pull out vb to determine which one unless someone in the forum know it for sure.
Thnx

You need to get the transmission serial number off the side of the housing, passenger side I think. The serial number you use to determine which generation of transmission it is and hence which ZiP kit applies. My D4 runs the ZF6HP28 box, and I needed a Gen2 ZiP kit. The separation plate between the upper and lower halves of the VB also has a number, that you can only see once you’ve pulled it apart. Valve to body seals, pump seals solenoids and mechatronic seals are common across the 6HP series, unless you’ve got the e shift box (paddle shift), which has one extra solenoid.