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Thread: Zf 6hp mechatronic valve body seals?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    Toogoom, QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by janousek View Post
    Hi there,
    I have a quick question to those who managed to replace mechatronic connector sleeve and valve body seals.
    I have steel pan already installed. If i was to attempt a DIY, do I have to remove exhaust and cross member to access the valve body?
    Thnx
    On a D3 no, D4 maybe.
    Last edited by LRD414; 26th July 2019 at 03:45 PM. Reason: fixed quote

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Having just changed out the seals on the control valve assembly on my RRS ZF6hp26 I did remove the rear cross-member see pic (Disco may be different?)
    The LR manual uses a special tool to extract the rubber valve sleeves 307-492(LRT-44-005) https://jlrequipment.service-solutio...px?SKU=307-492
    Ive seen some videos of butchering the sealing surfaces with seal picks and circlip pliers
    This is what I used as a knockoff of the special tool (see pic), and it works without damaging the surface
    You can see the 4 valve seals that have been installed sitting slightly proud og the housing. The old ones were compressed flush
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  3. #13
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    Sep 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grappler View Post
    Having just changed out the seals on the control valve assembly on my RRS ZF6hp26 I did remove the rear cross-member see pic (Disco may be different?)
    The LR manual uses a special tool to extract the rubber valve sleeves 307-492(LRT-44-005) https://jlrequipment.service-solutio...px?SKU=307-492
    Ive seen some videos of butchering the sealing surfaces with seal picks and circlip pliers
    This is what I used as a knockoff of the special tool (see pic), and it works without damaging the surface
    You can see the 4 valve seals that have been installed sitting slightly proud og the housing. The old ones were compressed flush
    Mine were flush as well, I used external circlip pliers up the aperture of the seals and the pulled straight out, no damage to sealing surfaces.

  4. #14
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    Aug 2012
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    Greenvale, Melbourne
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    I very much like the bolt idea. It looks easier and safer than carving out with a long nose.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Brisbane, Queensland
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    Is it very difficult to swap the valve body control module between two mechatronic units?
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  6. #16
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    I dont know first hand , but i suspect each is coded to the mechatronic and transmission control module, much the same as the injectors are. You do have to be careful not to damage the mechatrinoc with static discharge and so on, i wore an earthing bracelet when i did mine. Even when handling the mechatronic aside from the valve body.

  7. #17
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    Jan 1970
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    The reason I ask is I fitted a newer low km trans a few years ago, but had to use the old mechatronic. If I can swap my module onto the newer valve body it will save a valve kit.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  8. #18
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    Sep 2014
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    I think the newer valve body to the existing mechatronic should be ok, but a different mechatronic in the same gearbox isnt.

    Either way, i would still put a zip kit through the valve body. The seals and new accumlators alone make a big difference.

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