What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Plate works!

For some time now the "Low Coolant" message has been appearing in the information display "now and then".
The tank level is checked as ok and, as correctly mentioned on this forum before, it is a result of the internal float becoming coolant-logged and sinking (not buoyant) and therefore does not float to the top of the sensor tube to give an ok signal to the car.
So after I changed the tank I did some surgery on the old tank because I know you guys love pictures to look at.

And again - photos imported from my mobile phone remain clocked 90 degrees to the left - sorry. I have tried everything I know to rotate them but to no avail. Just turn your desktop computer monitor on its side - you're welcome [smilebigeye]
Attachment 171452
This first photo is a tank full of water held up to the light - you can see the shadow of the float sitting happilly at the bottom of the tank like a mobster threw it in a lake with bricks tied to its ankle.

Attachment 171453
This second photo proves the concept as the float is now dropped into a glass of water - still sinks.

Attachment 171454
This last cutaway photo shows the configuration of the float on its tube inside the tank and also shows the sensor in its normal location pushed into the tube from outside the tank. The sensor has a reed switch internal so when the magnet inside the float rises to the top of the tube it closes the circuit and gives the information display an "ok" signal. When it drops, the circuit opens and the information display is commanded to report "Low Coolant Level".
So you can see that changing the sensor will not fix the issue. (save your money)
I hope this clears it up some for the inquisitive.
I paid $168 for a new tank and $6.95 for a new cap (from my local indie). Took me about 40 minutes to change the tank over in my driveway with hand tools.
Matti

Quote:

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Originally Posted by matti4556

For some time now the "Low Coolant" message has been appearing in the information display "now and then".
The tank level is checked as ok and, as correctly mentioned on this forum before, it is a result of the internal float becoming coolant-logged and sinking (not buoyant) and therfore does not float to the top of the sensor tube to give an ok signal to the car.
So after I changed the tank I did some surgery on the old tank because I know you guys love pictures to look at.

And again - photos imported from my mobile phone remain clocked 90 degrees to the left - sorry. I have tried everything I know to rotate them but to no avail. Just turn your desktop computer monitor on its side - you're welcome [smilebigeye]
Attachment 171452
This first photo is a tank full of water held up to the light - you can see the shadow of the float sitting happilly at the bottom of the tank like a mobster threw it in a lake with bricks tied to its ankle.

Attachment 171453
This second photo proves the concept as the float is now dropped into a glass of water - still sinks.

Attachment 171454
This last cutaway photo shows the configuration of the float on its tube inside the tank and also shows the sensor in its normal location pushed into the tube from outside the tank. The sensor has a reed switch internal so when the magnet inside the float rises to the top of the tube it closes the circuit and gives the information display an "ok" signal. When it drops, the circuit opens and the information display is commanded to report "Low Coolant Level".
So you can see that changing the sensor will not fix the issue. (save your money)
I hope this clears it up some for the inquisitive.
I paid $168 for a new tank and $6.95 for a new cap (from my local indie). Took me about 40 minutes to chage the tank over in my driveway with hand tools.
Matti

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Thanks for this, Matti. My D3 has given me 'Low Coolant' warning a couple of times in the last 3 months, which resulted in my checking the coolant level, which was OK each time. It hasn't done it for a while so I'll let sleeping dogs lie, for now.

Brilliant.

It'd be interesting to slowly increase the SG of the fluid and see at what point the float regains buoyancy. I suppose you'd want a relatively accurate hydrometer to measure that then.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BradC

Brilliant.

It'd be interesting to slowly increase the SG of the fluid and see at what point the float regains buoyancy. I suppose you'd want a relatively accurate hydrometer to measure that then.

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Brad, the float was saturated and porous in nature. I doubt it would ever float again. [bighmmm] Matti

Someone asked what my forward lighting looks like.
Hopefully this works:

D4 forward lighting - YouTube

I’ll get it on the highway and get more footage.

Let’s just say it’s sufficiently silly.

Great work Mike,
big change when you go back to low :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Someone asked what my forward lighting looks like.
Hopefully this works:

D4 forward lighting - YouTube

I’ll get it on the highway and get more footage.

Let’s just say it’s sufficiently silly.

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I wondered why all the cars in the street had blistered paint on the driver's side...

Oil and filter changed and new Stedi HID globes after my originals started cutting out. 10 years out of the original ones.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Oil and filter changed and new Stedi HID globes after my originals started cutting out. 10 years out of the original ones.

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They should look very different [emoji3]

Original 4200k vs the new ones at 5500k

Only 2800 lumen though.

Let us know how they go.