Dual Compressors in front of Crack battery so no space anywhere else under the bonnet - had to modify my Aux battery bracket to create a mounting base for the unit - happy with the result.
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Dual Compressors in front of Crack battery so no space anywhere else under the bonnet - had to modify my Aux battery bracket to create a mounting base for the unit - happy with the result.
Thursday last week new tie rods, rod ends both sides, new air struts on front and rear.
Friday it got a 4 wheel alignment and new Pirelli Scorpion Zeros.
Drives nice again.
Rear wheel bearing is very noisy and that is getting done this Thursday or friday.
Actually Garry you do.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
The patch stops them operating when vehicle running, the cleaning cycle still occurs on shut down.
May want to check.Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryO
The unit will likely de-rate significantly in that area due to heat soak.
I’d look to mount it in front of the Airbox if that’s all the space you have left.
Yes I agree when people think ahead and get the patch when all is good and the EGRs are still working - but most people will not do anything until the car starts running like a dog and the EML comes on and the codes say EGR failure. By this stage the EGRs are not only clogged up but the mechanism that actually makes the actual valve open and close has been cooked and or rusted out and not working.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
So you point is very relevant - patch them while they still work and not wait until it is too late.
Garry
This is exactly where I am as for some inexplicable reason mine still work on a MY08. I think regular country runs helps them live longer lives.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
My dilemma is what to do with the coolers after patching and blanking as there are two options I reckon to finish the job properly;
a) remove top and bottom coolant hoses from each cooler and join with a suitable (which would be?) pipe.
b) blank cooler at manifold and leave coolant hoses connected. I suspect the same EGR blanking plate will match the manifold connection.
I suspect on a 2.7 a) will be easier but still an absolute nightmare to get access.
To delete all the EGR coolant hoses would take some clever plumbing to maintain the connection to the cabin heater from the top plastic ‘thermostat’ fitting in the V. Currently the coolant travels from this part splitting left and right around front of engine into the bottom of each cooler then out of the top of each cooler and across the top of the engine at the back. There is a T off to the cabin heater piping on the drivers side.
Obviously once you are in there it would be good to do it all.
Even with the bits I removed doing my repairs its still very tight for space down by the egrs, I don't know what the affects will be if the coolers are removed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...873bf09f1e.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
Yes this pic is very handy. Is the EGR cooler supply hose removed or is that it hanging over the top idler wheel? It plugs into the smaller of the top outlets.
The fact it goes into a hard pipe on the drivers side seems not to match the drawings I’ve seen.
I removed the hard pipe (goes right across the back) as its the only way to get the injectors out and valve covers off also to get to the fuel pump belt.Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
That top pipe joins the coolers loop but the flow comes from the plastic fitting in the middle through the coolers then off to the heater via that top cross over.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
What I meant is the black rubber hose in the photo goes over to the right into a hard pipe then to the EGR cooler or was it another pipe you removed?