I did, I was only highlighting not to leave it as a permanent repair. Emergency only.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D4
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I did, I was only highlighting not to leave it as a permanent repair. Emergency only.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D4
Swapped my short roof rails for long rails with another forum member so he could fit his prospeed rack, helps me and I quite like the look.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5476d00b22.jpg
Just completed a 6,000 km Xmas odyssey about 4,000 of that towing a 6.7 M boat - 1 x flat tyre, 1 x new battery, 1 x top radiator hose!
Starting to change out both inlet manifolds.
Wish me luckhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bac2c09cff.jpg
Also doing the coolant junction on top while I'm in there. Although it's original and hasn't shown a sign of a problem yet. Just have gotten lucky
Advice. Don’t forget to use liquid gasket sealant at junction, corners of the cam retainers on the rubber gasket. It’ll leak otherwise.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
The advice should be to pay someone to do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
One of the engine cover holders. The ones that extend over the bolts with the balls on the end. Snapped. Need to make noise to remove the last bolt before getting the first cover off.
Thanks for the tip. I've got some three bond here left over from the blue thing on the left of the photo
Which junction??Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
At the back. There is a half moon where the rubber gasket goes over the cam. At the two corners you need sealant in there as the rubber gasket won’t get into the corners properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
Hi all, after looking at quite a few DRL install ideas went with this idea from BMKal with a slight change.Attachment 157011Attachment 157012Attachment 157013Attachment 157014Attachment 157015
Sorry about the wrong way up, just have to stand on yer-head, anyhow, OL bars have a fill molding between the bar and the headlights. I cut into it to recess the lights and away we go. The lights are connected to the turn indicators and do a sequential light in the direction of the arrows.
Replaced the front lower control arms after 113k km. Easy enough job, nothing was rusted & I marked the position of all of the cams. No need to push out the front drive shafts as there was enough room to get the lower ball joint out of it's taper.
I have tightened all but 1 of the bolts using the correct torque settings. The bolt on the rear of the passenger side control arm is obstructed by part of the exhaust & I wondered what others thought about how to solve the access problem. I thought about cutting the bolt shorter as it blocks the square of a standard socket & then grinding the socket so that the torque wrench fits. For now, a good few clouts on the spanner with a lump hammer will have to do.
See the attached pics:
Attachment 157118Attachment 157119Attachment 157117
