Page 28 of 633 FirstFirst ... 1826272829303878128528 ... LastLast
Results 271 to 280 of 6328

Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

  1. #271
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,070
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rapserv View Post
    pretty much any HSS drill bit (preferably fully ground) should do the job.
    If they don't cut ... they're blunt and if they snap whilst drilling ... the speed is too high.
    Just because they are known as HSS doesn't mean you have to use them at high speed.
    If it's cutting properly their should be one continuous piece of swarf off the drill bit.
    If the hole being drilled is over say 1/2"... then place a small piece of damp rag (folded into fours) first over the hole being drilled.
    Drill at LOW speed and enough pressure to get that steady stream of swarf. The rag will minimise the chance of 'chatter' and provide a very smooth final hole .... and save many a drill bit or two to boot!!
    As in drill through the 4 layers of wrag?
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  2. #272
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Travelling (NFA)
    Posts
    391
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by John_D4 View Post
    As in drill through the 4 layers of wrag?
    yes ... drill through the rag. It will take a few seconds to start to bite.
    just keep applying a steady light pressure to keep the swarf peeling off in one piece if possible.
    if the swarf breaks off ... don't worry ... just adjust the pressure up or down slightly to get that steady rate again.
    Once you get used to doing bigger holes this way ... you will never look back.
    It's not a nice feeling to have the drill bit chattering in the hole and then realise you're making a 'squarish' looking hole.
    Cutting compound and even just oil can also be used on the rag instead of water however this tends to create smoke/fumes.
    I prefer to use water .. the 'old timers' used to use spit.
    This method works particularly well when drilling through/into thick metals

    when the metal swarf starts peeling off don't be tempted to grab hold of it and clear it out of the way whilst drilling ... as you may well get caught up in it.
    I can't recall if I made mention of it in my previous post ... but drill the steel at a very slow speed with bigger drills ... the slower the better .. you will quickly find the 'sweet spot' (drill speed)
    2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
    (Build Date: 08/01)
    Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
    ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
    Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
    12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
    245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's


  3. #273
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,070
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rapserv View Post
    yes ... drill through the rag. It will take a few seconds to start to bite.
    just keep applying a steady light pressure to keep the swarf peeling off in one piece if possible.
    if the swarf breaks off ... don't worry ... just adjust the pressure up or down slightly to get that steady rate again.
    Once you get used to doing bigger holes this way ... you will never look back.
    It's not a nice feeling to have the drill bit chattering in the hole and then realise you're making a 'squarish' looking hole.
    Cutting compound and even just oil can also be used on the rag instead of water however this tends to create smoke/fumes.
    I prefer to use water .. the 'old timers' used to use spit.
    This method works particularly well when drilling through/into thick metals

    when the metal swarf starts peeling off don't be tempted to grab hold of it and clear it out of the way whilst drilling ... as you may well get caught up in it.
    I can't recall if I made mention of it in my previous post ... but drill the steel at a very slow speed with bigger drills ... the slower the better .. you will quickly find the 'sweet spot' (drill speed)
    Thanks for that
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  4. #274
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Brisbane,some of the time.
    Posts
    13,886
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by John_D4 View Post
    Thanks for that
    Keeping the drill bit as cool as possible is the key to keeping it sharp.

  5. #275
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,744
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Changed out the front lower control arms on the weekend. Previous ones had done 111,000km so the rear bush was getting a little tired. Kept my previous arms at the last change so done the bushes in the spare arms in the weeks leading upto the change.
    Also changed brake pads all round to akebonos after running Bendix pads for ages. Will see how these pads go in comparison
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html

  6. #276
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    2,700
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by shanegtr View Post
    Changed out the front lower control arms on the weekend. Previous ones had done 111,000km so the rear bush was getting a little tired. Kept my previous arms at the last change so done the bushes in the spare arms in the weeks leading upto the change.
    Also changed brake pads all round to akebonos after running Bendix pads for ages. Will see how these pads go in comparison
    You will love clean rims for ever after but they do have obviously less ‘bite’ than oems but you get used to it.

  7. #277
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    4,335
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    You will love clean rims for ever after but they do have obviously less ‘bite’ than oems but you get used to it.
    A tip for those who have dusty pads.
    Autoglym Wheel Protector - a silicone-like spray applied after a wheel wash stops brake dust sticking. Works for about six weeks. Have been using it now for about six months and it definitely works. I get about two to three full car applications from a single can.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  8. #278
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, SA
    Posts
    7,545
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    A tip for those who have dusty pads.
    Autoglym Wheel Protector - a silicone-like spray applied after a wheel wash stops brake dust sticking. Works for about six weeks. Have been using it now for about six months and it definitely works. I get about two to three full car applications from a single can.
    Not suitable for black wheels though.

  9. #279
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Not suitable for black wheels though.
    Why?
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #280
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,737
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Why?
    Discolouration

Page 28 of 633 FirstFirst ... 1826272829303878128528 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!