Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Was told the end play/float on my 3L crank was excessive while it was being inspected today during a body off. To be honest when you pull it back and forward it moves a noticeable amount and knocks - noticeable amount by hand is clearly too much.
Sigh.

Wow, just wow! Is it still running sweet? How many k's? Hopefully they can do a bearing roll, but the extra labour won't feel nice.

Originally Posted by Narangga

While I can change a wheel, I am not competent enough to change a tyre. In that I follow in my late father's footsteps. We lived in country SA and even back in the 60s the only thing he would order with his new car was a sixth rim. He reasoned that the most likely time to get a flat tyre was at 12.01pm on a Saturday afternoon when there was a long trip planned and the local tyre place (read MS McLeod for those in SA who remember ) would be closed. Rather than carry the said wood, I instead have a sixth wheel which goes with us on long trips and those trips are usually time critical so changing a wheel is quicker than changing a tyre. It also means I rotate tyres in pairs between axles and so can spread the kilometres so that I am not having to pay for a new set of tyres all at once.



Please see above.
QED.

As long as you’re wearing them all out before 5 years you should be fine..

After 5 years the odds are that tyre problems are more likely to occur.

Originally Posted by Tombie

As long as you’re wearing them all out before 5 years you should be fine..

After 5 years the odds are that tyre problems are more likely to occur.

Thanks for the reminder.
I keep a record of them so know when each set were bought and at the current rate the last pair will be gone before the 4th anniversary.

Originally Posted by josh.huber

Wow, just wow! Is it still running sweet? How many k's? Hopefully they can do a bearing roll, but the extra labour won't feel nice.

Yes running fine. Expect that the crank is serviceable just needs new bearings all round. Can do it without head removal taking it out from the bottom but it adds another $4k to the original cost. It’s one of those conundrums. The car is worth what, $20k trade in as a 2010 HSE. Spending near on $10k on a $20k car.... replacement lower km version of the same somewhere in the high $30k. Sod’s law the gearbox goes next, or turbos. Anyhow. Thread needed.

Adding 4 K seems excessive for a bearing roll

Fitted an iKamper RTT. Looking forward to spending a significant amount of my time in it!!

Originally Posted by josh.huber

Adding 4 K seems excessive for a bearing roll

Includes parts and labour. It’s a bit of work to get the crank out from the bottom. Also includes new oil pump, bearings, seals, etc. agree though, it was at the point I questioned calling it quits for it.

Pulled up at a remote work site this week after 500kms at 140km/h (sorry 130km/h as per speed limit) and heard and felt a horrible grinding when I applied the brakes. Very slowly reversed to park and it was much worse; actually stopped all vehicle movement. Nearly did one of my stupid knee jerk moments and planted the foot to get motion, but thankfully reconsidered. What I found was a loose left hand brake caliper. Only just had the local dealer fit new DBA slotted rotors and Pedders ceramic pads a couple of months ago. Just like how they left the castor bolts loose (all of them) (oh, and left the gearbox protection plate off; for the second time and this time lost it in their workshop - i had to go find it); they have apparently not tightened the calipers properly either. Has worn a slight mark on the inner side of the rim and a couple of dags where it grabbed when reversed. The top bolt was so close to falling out. Temporarily tightened with a shifter end on, with another on that shifter for the trip home and then again a little tighter with a 21mm socket at home, but will do them properly this weekend with thread lock and torque them up as spec'd to 275Nm. Thought the bolts were large Torx style at first (hence the two shifters as my biggest socket was a 21mm hex impact), but a quick search here and Bodsy's Brake bible and found they are 21mm bi-hex. Guess what was added to the tool bag. I'll be checking the back calipers as well. Out of warranty now, so off to find a decent Indy?