What happened to your D3/D4 today?

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Originally Posted by rocket rod

For the park brake I don't see why you wouldn't use the cheap version. All it has to do is keep the car stationary and doesn't really do any "braking" as such.

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I tend to agree - I just did my rear brakes with new PBR disks and Bendix brake pads. After 15 years and 200,000km the handbrake shoes were only about half worn so I just put put them back and went through the adjustment and bedding in process - no issues. I will replace the shoes when I next have to do work on the brakes - after about another 100,000km.

The only time I use the drive through feature is in on slopes in tight situations or on slopes when towing something heavy.

Garry

well I have a follow up to my air condition issue. Fridgie done a vacuum test with no issues found and regased it. Got it home and I was just checking the system pressures with the IID tool (mostly for the curiosity of it), when it decided they R134 gas was better on the outside than on the inside. Let go somewhere around the compressor, but no chance of actually seeing the leak location as the area down there is fairly well packed. Interestingly the leak briefly stopped for a moment then restarted again. Seems to be a strange leak, however apparently on the compressor there is a relief valve so I'd say highly likely that this is the cause, but in order to get that out I'd say the whole compressor will need removing. So at 400,000km on the original A/C compressor I'm thinking if it needs to come out then a new one should be going back in its place. Looks to be a real pain in the arse of a job and out of all the jobs I've done on my disco this would have to be the one I'm looking forward to the most.

I do need to get my own eyeballs onto it as the auto A/C guys couldnt see anything and to be honest they didn't even want the job of changing it out. But yeah, want to confirm if I can the location of the leak (if I can) before I go ordering parts

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Originally Posted by 101RRS

The only time I use the drive through feature is in on slopes in tight situations or on slopes when towing something heavy.

Garry

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I thought the Hill Hold feature of the braking system would help you there instead of the EPB?

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Originally Posted by shanegtr

I do need to get my own eyeballs onto it as the auto A/C guys couldnt see anything and to be honest they didn't even want the job of changing it out. But yeah, want to confirm if I can the location of the leak (if I can) before I go ordering parts

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If you had any dye in the system, I have a UV torch and glasses you can borrow. I suspect with a leak as big as you describe the oil trail will be pretty obvious.

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Originally Posted by shanegtr

well I have a follow up to my air condition issue. Fridgie done a vacuum test with no issues found and regased it.yeah,

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Very poor workmanship there,a proper vacuum test with the right gear will certainly determine if the system has a leak.

A vacuum test is often a better and quicker test than a pressure test,but it wont pinpoint the leak.

Due to the difficulty removing the compresser,you are better trying to pinpoint the leak first.After 400 000Km,good chance the shaft seal is shagged.

Using good quality leak detectors,leaks are very rarely not found.

We do this type of work all day,but not Auto AC.

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Originally Posted by scarry

Very poor workmanship there,a proper vacuum test with the right gear will certainly determine if the system has a leak.

A vacuum test is often a better and quicker test than a pressure test,but it wont pinpoint the leak.

Due to the difficulty removing the compresser,you are better trying to pinpoint the leak first.After 400 000Km,good chance the shaft seal is shagged.

Using good quality leak detectors,leaks are very rarely not found.

We do this type of work all day,but not Auto AC.

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They did a vacuum test, but if it is the relief valve thats faulty then that would most likely pass a vacuum test as the vacuum will hold the valve closed. But with pressure in the system once it opened it stayed open. At least thats my theory so far.

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Originally Posted by shanegtr

They did a vacuum test, but if it is the relief valve thats faulty then that would most likely pass a vacuum test as the vacuum will hold the valve closed. But with pressure in the system once it opened it stayed open. At least thats my theory so far.

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Does the relief valve vent to atmosphere?
With current regs,i doubt it will?
But i do stand to be corrected[bighmmm][biggrin]

Many relieve between the low and high pressure side of the system,usually inbuilt into the compresser.
I dont know if auto air is similar?

I have seen relief valves on refrigeration equipment that vent to atmosphere leak both ways.
On screw chillers they are a regular PITA[bigsad]

From videos/images I've seen of the compressor out of the car, yep the relief valve looks to vent to atmosphere. If it is indeed the relief valve it's not a leaky valve seat (which I agree could leak both was) but it appears to more be a faulty relief valve. When it dumped its guts a couple of days ago it was as if the relief valve suddenly opened and jammed on. It briefly stopped leaking and then restarted again. I was filming some video for my youtube channel when it let go.
https://youtu.be/Pe0vTwXl3dI

I changed the mirrors on mine to Clearview NextGen mirrors, and fixed the awning to the LR roof racks using the Rhinorack down angled bracket. The awning sits close to the roof, but there's at minimum 1cm of space between the roof and the awning.

Attachment 177703 Attachment 177704 Attachment 177705

Ron

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Originally Posted by shanegtr

well I have a follow up to my air condition issue. Fridgie done a vacuum test with no issues found and regased it. Got it home and I was just checking the system pressures with the IID tool (mostly for the curiosity of it), when it decided they R134 gas was better on the outside than on the inside. Let go somewhere around the compressor, but no chance of actually seeing the leak location as the area down there is fairly well packed. Interestingly the leak briefly stopped for a moment then restarted again. Seems to be a strange leak, however apparently on the compressor there is a relief valve so I'd say highly likely that this is the cause, but in order to get that out I'd say the whole compressor will need removing. So at 400,000km on the original A/C compressor I'm thinking if it needs to come out then a new one should be going back in its place. Looks to be a real pain in the arse of a job and out of all the jobs I've done on my disco this would have to be the one I'm looking forward to the most.

I do need to get my own eyeballs onto it as the auto A/C guys couldnt see anything and to be honest they didn't even want the job of changing it out. But yeah, want to confirm if I can the location of the leak (if I can) before I go ordering parts

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Hey Shane, my 2c, the compressor is shagged the same way they always are, your aircon bloke tried to charge it on pressures instead of weight.. The compressor was at minimum displacement when he gassed it. Then the compressor hit the right bump freed up and went to max. Pressures climbed through the roof then the relief saved the compressor. Those relief valves open. And stay there until the system is well and truely calmed down.

Mine would stay warm for about 5ks before it started to cool. There is a few threads on here where I put some information about changing compressors and the flushing that needs to be done. Send me a PM if you want. I did mine myself. But I have a licence