Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

I was getting the P730 incorrect gear ratio on mine,zip kit with new solenoids pretty much fixed it.
I had done the mechatronic seals not long before which didn't do anything.
Might be worth doing that first as it will need doing during a rebuild anyway.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

I was getting the P730 incorrect gear ratio on mine,zip kit with new solenoids pretty much fixed it.
I had done the mechatronic seals not long before which didn't do anything.
Might be worth doing that first as it will need doing during a rebuild anyway.

sadly does not address the TC which is shuddering, RPM surging nor does it address the slipping in mid range gears.

Gimme a shout if you get into trouble on the bottom half of the Toowoomba trip, this weekend.

Originally Posted by V8Ian

Gimme a shout if you get into trouble on the bottom half of the Toowoomba trip, this weekend.

thanks mate appreciate that, I'll be going the back way via Kilkivan, Goomeri etc

I've just spent a small metric ****load on CEM products (CRD, FTC & FOC). I've used the CRD in the past and did get measurable improvement in the injector offsets while it was in the tank. Within 2 tanks of not using the CRD they returned to where they were. To be honest I wanted to experiment with the FTC because we have a boat with a pair of Volvo TAMD71 (based on the D71 truck donk) that both white smoke when cold, and a whisker when running at cruising speed. If it does what it says on the tin it should make things better. Anyway, worst case I see some mild improvement in the injector offsets for a couple of thousand kays. Best case? Who knows. With no EGR or DPF (both met industrial accidents with a 4" grinder) we'll see if I notice any difference.

The FOC came with the pack, and I have some cheap semi-synth Penrite oil here that'll do nicely for a complete flush. Again, don't know if I'll observe a difference but I put it in the "can't hurt" basket.

Originally Posted by PeterOZ

sadly does not address the TC which is shuddering, RPM surging nor does it address the slipping in mid range gears.

It does partly because fluid pressure loss in the valve body leads to poor shifting and could also cause excess slip.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

It does partly because fluid pressure loss in the valve body leads to poor shifting and could also cause excess slip.

ok noted

I noticed in the recent LR Time video replacing LCA bushes DIY he set the depth of insert of the larger rear bush. Checking the workshop manual indeed there is a LR special tool to set the insert depth of this one bush you use underneath when pressing in the rear bush.

I’ve got an old set of genuine worn out LR arms (which BradC has been kindly storing for me) which came off the car around 2019



You can see the bush is not fully pressed in and same on other side LCA. It’s no error but it’s also not equidistant both sides. If anything the bush is more flush at one end or just 1mm through.

I recently priced new Meyle HD complete arms which I currently have on the car but with exchange rates and shipping cost the price of just doing the bushes and BJ really stacks up so I’ve gone that way and parts on the way. Was half the cost.

I’ve got the Meyle HD rear bush and Lemforder for the rest. I’ll carefully measure the Meyle bush dimensions against the original LR Lemforder oil filled bush.

Given the size and complexity of the LCAs I’m tempted to take these down to Pedders to do the pressing part but just letting you all know about the depth issue if you DIY it.

LR Time had a clunk due to the extended depth of install touching the chassis mount under load. Obviously the other side is designed to take some load on the rubber face.

A cheat way might be to create a shim on the lip side you can remove later to set the depth. Even a cable tie might stop it about the right depth if careful.