What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Hey Josh. Same deal. I’ve got the 1400 odd one and really don’t need about 150mm of it. I have been contemplating removing it and trimming but as I don’t have a nice drop saw I was worried of butchering the aluminium. How did you find it - what did you use?

---

It's actually easy as, great product.
Get a can of Matt Black to hide your cuts.
I used this from super cheap.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1ef419642b.jpg

Get the vertical cut perfect, that's what you see from the ground, I did mine with a cordless grinder, the biggest problem you'll have is you plank spacing. The 1400 has a spacer that bolts in. Maybe if you drop 1 plank you can still use. Not sure. I riveted each plank in each cross member twice. I hate rattles. I made mine to suit me and my application only so it's not symmetrical as you can see from the photos.

The noise I had before hand was actually rivet heads in the rack from a previous repair.

Take the edge off. Remove the same amount of material from every cross peice, refit.

I have more photos if your Gunna do it. Pm me and I'll send you the rest and extra instructions.

As for butchering it, the plastic nylon corner peices they use hide your cuts pretty well. That and the spray paint.

Nice job. So just to clarify, how long is the track? Was it the 1426 x 2128 before you made it narrower? I like the size of yours and am looking at options for when I get mine.


Also, are you running the wires down through the black plug thingo at the rear of the roof?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by josh.huber

It's actually easy as, great product.
Get a can of Matt Black to hide your cuts.
I used this from super cheap.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1ef419642b.jpg

Get the vertical cut perfect, that's what you see from the ground, I did mine with a cordless grinder, the biggest problem you'll have is you plank spacing. The 1400 has a spacer that bolts in. Maybe if you drop 1 plank you can still use. Not sure. I riveted each plank in each cross member twice. I hate rattles. I made mine to suit me and my application only so it's not symmetrical as you can see from the photos.

The noise I had before hand was actually rivet heads in the rack from a previous repair.

Take the edge off. Remove the same amount of material from every cross peice, refit.

I have more photos if your Gunna do it. Pm me and I'll send you the rest and extra instructions.

As for butchering it, the plastic nylon corner peices they use hide your cuts pretty well. That and the spray paint.

---

Oh I see. You removed the bolt in clamps/spacers and riveted the planks to locate them [emoji106]

Thanks to all of you who gave me the brake part numbers etc. I have been googling (what else to do when locked up) and came up with the following prices:


Rotors No name $70 TR spares

Slotted Rotors No name $145 All Fourx4
DBA $177 Spares Pro

Pads (Say they are genuine. Come with clips, bolts, retainer clips, and grease sachet)
$288 TR spares
$290 All Fourx4

Pads (not genuine but LR part No quoted Come with bolts and clips)
$156 All Fourx4 ($145 pads +$11 clips)

DBA Pads (no clips or bolts)
$125 Super cheap
$113.22 Auto Superstore

Wear Sensor
$29 TR Spares
$34 All Fourx4
My issue is the big difference in prices. My car stops fine with OEM unslotted rotors, so I wonder why everybody prefers slotted, or is it because they cannot be sourced easily and maybe they are too cheap ($70). Also using LR pads mean I will have dust everywhere as I do now. Also is it necessary to replace the bolts and clips? On other cars I have done, I have just used the old bolts and clips. Your advice/opinions are greatly sort. Thanks David

Yeah John, it was that size originally, It fitted to a Drifta DOT camper, Gumtree special, i didn't modify the length just the width. They are a great item. I think i could do the whole job in a couple hours if i did it again.

Jeffster, mine was riveted on 2 of the 5 cross bars, i was going to stick with the clamps but the spacing didn't work, when i looked at the photos of the 1200 rack it had 4 planks and i couldn't see the clamps in any, i put 2 rivets in the back of every plank at every cross bar, leave the rear cross piece to last, my planks were full of stainless rivet heads, drove me insane the alloy rivets i used didn't shoot the ball into the tracks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dirvine

Thanks to all of you who gave me the brake part numbers etc. I have been googling (what else to do when locked up) and came up with the following prices:


Rotors No name $70 TR spares

Slotted Rotors No name $145 All Fourx4
DBA $177 Spares Pro

Pads (Say they are genuine. Come with clips, bolts, retainer clips, and grease sachet)
$288 TR spares
$290 All Fourx4

Pads (not genuine but LR part No quoted Come with bolts and clips)
$156 All Fourx4 ($145 pads +$11 clips)

PDA Pads (no clips or bolts)
$125 Super cheap
$113.22 Auto Superstore

Wear Senor $29 TR Spares
$34 All Fourx4
My issue is the big difference in prices. My car stops fine with OEM unslotted rotors, so I wonder why everybody prefers slotted, or is it because they cannot be sourced easily and maybe they are too cheap ($70). Also using LR pads mean I will have dust everywhere as I do now. Also is it necessary to replace the bolts and clips? On other cars I have done, I have just used the old bolts and clips. Your advice/opinions are greatly sort. Thanks David

---

I have had DBA and RDA, slotted for both, both wear really good and didn't need to be changed every time a set of pads was needed, I put the DBA through a lot testing pads, in the end the high quality rotors mean you can quickly throw a set of pads in without having the change the rotor. My rears are still DBA just about gone, have been through 3 sets of genuine pads back there, In my opinion they offer a better bite, maybe a placebo?
I tow a lot, generally on the speed limit so the slotted helps with the heat, the different in price from slotted to standard was minimal. You will only need sensors if the light on the dash is already on.
As for pads, I am strictly genuine, but there are lots of threads about other pads that are good. I just live with the dust.
Auto glym do make a product for brake dust on alloy wheels, i seen it at supercheap, the guy who works there swears by it, his car is super clean.

Josh. Only use the Autoglym wheel spray on Non-black wheels.

For black wheels there is a product by Armour all.


And no way would I run factory pads. They eat rotors and make far too much dust! Ceramic all the way!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dirvine

PDA Pads (no clips or bolts)
$125 Super cheap
$113.22 Auto Superstore

---

Assuming you mean DBA pads, they do come with with clips but no bolts. I reused the bolts and put some Loctite 234 on the threads when refitting. They also come with a wear sensor, but this doesn’t fit (Incorrect plug and rubber mounts on cable incorrectly spaced) I’ve let them know this and ‘They will look into in’.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tombie

Josh. Only use the Autoglym wheel spray on Non-black wheels.

For black wheels there is a product by Armour all.


And no way would I run factory pads. They eat rotors and make far too much dust! Ceramic all the way!

---

I havnt used a anti dust spray yet, do you rate it? I don't find the wear on rotors to be bad at all. Multiple pad sets to a set of rotors.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by josh.huber

I havnt used a anti dust spray yet, do you rate it? I don't find the wear on rotors to be bad at all. Multiple pad sets to a set of rotors.

---

I use the Autoglym on my silver wheels. Amazing. Lasts about six weeks and there’s about two sets-of-wheels applications per can. I completely rate it.