What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Thanks Graeme. It’s a 50A Anderson. I have an adapter I made up when I got the D3 in 2017.

Turns out there’s some fairly average wiring in behind the fridge (part of the vans 63 year legacy) and it looks like the blue-points that are terminating the wiring have moved around enough to allow the incoming positive to be exposed and short to the fridge chassis when hit by the water pump. The water pump has come off its mounts and is flopping around on the hoses.

Also explains the "fairly average" fridge performance when on the car. The heater is getting between 8 & 9V. Turns out blue-points, chocolate strips, 24/0.20 figure 8 and elastoplast don't make for good high current wiring. When I got the van the incoming was on a 240V plug and using 1mm2 lighting TPS. I replaced that with 4mm2 and an anderson, but I never got around to actually getting in there to check the rest of it as it "seemed to work well enough".

Bit of maintenance and a re-wire required. Every year holds a new surprise.

My Grandfather was a master coachbuilder, but not much of an electrician.

Edit : The switch for the fridge was dissipating 10-15W. Bloody lucky it didn't set fire to the wooden cabinet it was screwed into. A complete re-wire sees the fridge drawing 125W rather than the 80-90 I was getting. Now I have to address the 1.6V loss between the battery and the 12S connector on the car. Time for some additional wiring and an Anderson out the back I think.

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

So far so good. Incredibly simple. I have not dry fitted yet.

@DiscoJeffster how much Sika 227 do you need? I have an unopened 150ml tube already in my kit. Agree WSM has a great description and roughing the plastic surface is the way to go. How forensically clean did you get the car side?

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Unbelievably I think I have snatched victory from the jaws of defeat. Followed the ows and installed an 8mm bead 15mm in on the new item.

I was smart enough to dry fit it prior and realised that getting the hose on would be nearly impossible with the nozzle fitted. I added some string to pull it through the hole. Even doing that it was a nightmare to get the hose through as it has to make a tight bend. That involved me getting my hand behind and creating all sorts of mess. Thank god another small corner of my brain thought to put some tape around.

In the end the mess cleaned up pretty easy once dry and Sika 227 adhesion looks good. I’d double the amount of tape used next time. Can’t fault quality of product.

Used half of a tube to achieve the specified bead size.

Carefully cleaned off old Sika and roughed up both surfaces.

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What size tube of sika did you use, was the 150ml enough ?

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

What size tube of sika did you use, was the 150ml enough ?

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Yes I bought a second tube but to do a lap of 8mm bead used half of one tube and I tried to be very generous.

I’d previously had the light replaced after reversing into something by supplying a window shop with a new light. It was pretty obvious they did not remove the existing sika just added a new layer hence the adhesion problem. Once the surface was cleaned up it’s a pretty close fit between light and body so the specified bead is correct.

A good collection of sharp blades and cutting tools really helps.

Pretty good for $34.

Not today but Friday the old D3 goes in to have drivers rear injector replaced. I had been having a problem with fuel seepage in that area for some time. I replaced the leak back pipes and that did not fix the leak.
Had my LR mechanic fit a new O ring and lube it up and sill leaking. Had it to him yesterday as we both thought a new leak back pipe loom might be needed.

He gave the injector area a good clean and blow off with compressed air and ran the engine for quite a while at about 2k RPM. No leak. hmmmm let it idle about another 5 minutes and then a hint of fuel moisture presented just below top of the injector. As we watched you could see the wetness around the big nut which is just below the electrical connector.
He will fit a good used injector and hopefully no dramas getting the old one out.

I installed a Starlink mini a few months ago. But only recently used it on the road travelling back from northern Vic when I broke my phone and had to restore the backup to a new one on the trip back. With tree obstructions I was getting about 10-20Mbps, which is ok for basic browsing, tho not great for downloading GB's worth of backup.

However, on the open highway travelling at 110k's I was getting 160Mbps, which I think is pretty awesome.

I used the Svnty Offroad mount (which is great) on my Rhino platform and 12v adaptor sourced from Amazon, similar to this one, connected to my 200A Enerdrive battery via push button switch and fuse block.

It draws about 5-7a on average.

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Originally Posted by Disco4TT3

I installed a Starlink mini a few months ago. But only recently used it on the road travelling back from northern Vic when I broke my phone and had to restore the backup to a new one on the trip back. With tree obstructions I was getting about 10-20Mbps, which is ok for basic browsing, tho not great for downloading GB's worth of backup.

However, on the open highway travelling at 110k's I was getting 160Mbps, which I think is pretty awesome.

I used the Svnty Offroad mount (which is great) on my Rhino platform and 12v adaptor sourced from Amazon, similar to this one, connected to my 200A Enerdrive battery via push button switch and fuse block.

It draws about 5-7a on average.

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Did a road trip with a friend who had a mini on the roof. Could get full wifi internet off him travelling a safe distance behind at highway speeds. Now that’s a feature.

My son was talking about either external antennas or a Cel-Fi while we were away recently. I reminded him he had a bloody big screen on either side and one out the front with ever-changing entertainment and as a bonus he could talk to to the tour guides up-front. He put his noise cancelling headphones back on and went back to youtube.

I want to turn the car into a Faraday cage and block all "internet on the go".

Kids.

No you don’t [emoji6][emoji41]

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Originally Posted by Disco4TT3

I installed a Starlink mini a few months ago. But only recently used it on the road travelling back from northern Vic when I broke my phone and had to restore the backup to a new one on the trip back. With tree obstructions I was getting about 10-20Mbps, which is ok for basic browsing, tho not great for downloading GB's worth of backup.

However, on the open highway travelling at 110k's I was getting 160Mbps, which I think is pretty awesome.

I used the Svnty Offroad mount (which is great) on my Rhino platform and 12v adaptor sourced from Amazon, similar to this one, connected to my 200A Enerdrive battery via push button switch and fuse block.

It draws about 5-7a on average.

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Something very wrong there power wise...

25w / 30v is 0.7a

25w / 12v is 2.08a