Mine got new rear suspension arms, bushes and airbags last week. The car is going great. I'm not sure if it's my imagination, but it sounds even quieter on road and off road with no clunking from the rear like it used to on big bumps.
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Mine got new rear suspension arms, bushes and airbags last week. The car is going great. I'm not sure if it's my imagination, but it sounds even quieter on road and off road with no clunking from the rear like it used to on big bumps.
Started getting low coolant warnings about a year / 10,000 km ago. But of course the coolant level was fine. Decided it was the sensor in the coolant header bottle, so purchased a Meyle replacement from TR Spares part LR020367G (for a TDV6).
Was dreading the install after watching a few YouTube videos showing the struggle with the lower pipe. However it was a breeze. Sorry no pics, but here is some tips if you need to do this: Remove the headlight, even if you have a bullbar in the way, just pull the headlight forward as far as possible. Get locking hose clamp pliers. Tie the power steering bottle back out of the way. Have a plug for the lower hose ready to reduce air ingress (or you could clamp the hose).
So far, no more low coolant warnings. And if I DO get such a warning, then its an urgent stop and shutdown the engine ASAP.
Finally received my car back after the engine rebuild. I Suppose it Had to Come to This...
Yep, seven months. Inlet manifolds and heads were fine, as were injectors (which were reconditioned) and turbos. Fitted new oil pump, alternator (planned) and aircon compressor and preventatively replaced the low pressure fuel pump. Replaced all hoses. The engine needed a replacement crankshaft and a new oil pump. Heads were overhauled.
The only mod was to run the alternator cable direct to the battery via a 250A fuse (in-line before the 400A Battery mega-fuse), thus bypassing the starter motor cable. Should the alternator ever fail, it won’t take out the battery (thanks Graeme).
Apart from the low pressure fuel pump, the only other work done whilst the body was off and access so easy, was to replace the centre prop shaft bearing and clean and grease the transfer case/gearbox union. And the fuel filter which was due anyway.
Additional work undertaken was a gearbox service (I do this every 40,000km now) and discs machined. Obviously, coolant and brake fluid had to be changed with the body off procedure.
The Indy wouldn’t release the car until he was sure everything was working as it should and he had bedded the motor and done a second oil and filter change. It’s back to Penrite 5w/30 dumbass for the first 100,000km (10,000km intervals) and then I’ll up it to Penrite 5w/40.
All up cost drive in/drive out was $33k. Engine rebuild was $25k. And the difference between the original engine and the new (effectively blue-printed) one? I wasn’t expecting any difference at all as the original ran smoothly and strongly. But I must admit, it now idles like a balanced petrol motor! And it certainly drives well, but not quick enough to test the bull bar on NavyDiver who I bumped into by chance in Queenscliff!
Finally received my car back after the engine rebuild.
May i ask who did the rebuild?
Pat at British 4WD Service 3/63 Muraduc Road, Drysdale VIC 3222. 0433 438 017Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
At least you caught the bearings before the block was wrecked.
My old D4 with its HD bearings still isn't fully operational 12 months after it siezed, now waiting on a new a/c condensor to replace the original that got scored across several tubes removing the radiator pack without assistance to replace the dryer. The coolant radiator and I/C are now on the chassis rails waiting for the condensor to be slipped in before being lifted slightly onto the mounts.
I’m changing my AC condenser this coming week along with compressor. Any tips on changing the condenser (aside from not damaging it)?Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
DieselLSE
Thanks for your reply - much appreciated.
When you discussed the motor rebuild before you went ahead, was the replacement crank discussed.
i.e has the crank been strengthened / improved on original design?
After not being able to remove the dryer by leaning the radiators backwards, I then couldn't remove just the condensor c/w dryer. However I later found a screw each side for the plastic "bowl" that the radiator bundle sits inside of, so perhaps with those screws removed the bundle might have folded back enough to get to the lower 2 condensor bolts. I also couldn't release either coupling for the fuel cooler radiator which is located at the very front, which if released would have allowed that radiator to be removed out the front, thus removing its pipes that were restricting upward movement of the condensor.
I eventually bit the bullet to proceed with removing the shroud etc, having wasted a lot of time removing stuff that didn't need to be removed in order to remove the radiator assembly. The fuel cooler radiator couplings were eventually released - they hadn't been released for 15 years so were just tight.
I guess all this will make sense when I get to it tomorrow. Having never explored the front end, it’ll be a first for me. Thanks Graeme.