Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

I understand that delete is not an option, but that the EGR can effectively be "disabled" - via remap if my memory serves, but hopefully the gurus will clarify/confirm.

Doesn’t change the coolant flow and thus, if they’re leaking into the coolant then it’s of no help.

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Until the water pump craps itself or the coolant jacket in the engine gets blocked.....

Then I’ll buy a Defender. Win win.

Not today, but last Wednesday, added a large kangaroo shaped ding across the front bumper, grill and right headlight.
D4 able to continue, but Skippy failed to proceed.

Couple of years ago a suicidal emu leapt in front of the D4, fortunately no damage sustained to vehicle. Emu also failed to proceed.

I guess I have sorted the Australian Coat of Arms.

Another 1000+km to home so that is 2000+km for down and back plus some running around town averaged around 13l/100km. Head winds certainly mess with your fuel consumptions.

Gave the D4 a good clean after 9,000 K trip to Nth Queensland that was faultless and was an enjoyable break.
Back in the shed till I get time to rotate wheels and change oil and with filter changes.
Lindsay.

Cleaned out the interior and stocked up the fridge between the middle seats in preparation for another road trip Friday.

Lazy 1200-1300km trip coming up with wife and friend for some relaxation and visiting a few Gin joints!

Love this machine!

Finished off my modified traxide installation today. For others contemplating it, Drivesafe's video shows a 'quick stabbing' with a screwdriver to open up the interior side of the firewall grommet hole (you're punching through a foam and rubbery plastic sound/dust/water proof membrane once the grommet is removed...). I found this to be beyond my manual dexterity without getting scared of damaging the edges of the firewall hole (risking rust etc), and/or ripping the assorted bits of complicated and delicate looking wiring apart (that are in the brake line compartment inconveniently in front of the hole...)

My solution was the remote flexible drive head on my dremel knock-off - perfect! It allowed me to bring power to bear in a tight space, and it removed all the violence from the operation, and with a 10mm ball head on it, I quickly and gently opened up a hole that would take the 6B&S twin comfortably...
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I then had a look at the in cab module. I decided that I didn't really like the 'aftermarket' look against the cost/benefit of having the visual indicator in the cab, so I've velcroed it to the side of the brake gubbins compartment (technical term there...). I am pretty confident it'll survive the environment (electrical insulating tape around the box sides for airtightness), and it's still viewable as and when I need to do some fault diagnosis...

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Then it was a happy couple of hours buggering about with the cable run to the rear of the vehicle, and crimping on appropriate eye terminals and anderson plugs etc... I've kept the whole lot tucked away in the driver's side tool compartment (I don't use the supplied rubbish tools, and have a full set under the second seat row, so this is free space for me.). This means that the OEM look is unsullied. Here's a test run of the fridge.

20220817_104746.jpg All works perfectly, and the fridge power cable is just visible disappearing under the tool cover flap thing - no need for holes, it just squeezes under when in use. NB - for this phase, the $5 cable feeder that Bunnings sells was a great bit of kit - recommended at this stupid price. Alternatively, it's identical to the edging in yellowtongue flooring, if you're doing some home renos: Poly Eiger 4mm 3.6m Yellow Poly Cable Feeder - Bunnings Australia

The 6B&S is painful to work with, but worth it. I got no measurable voltage drop measuring to 2 decimal places at the battery terminals and then at the back of the vehicle, which was pleasing. Annoyingly, the fridge power cable causes a significant drop: I may make up a slightly thicker one as I install the slider etc, but it's not a show stopper, and I'm running the fridge for 48 hrs to see if there are any issues.

As an aside, the Brass Monkey fridges are impressive at the price - cools very fast, LG compressor, low noise, and good bluetooth interface. This one's run faultlessly for 4 years, with beer in the shed and on camping trips.

Following on from the above post, I wanted a 50A Anderson terminal at the front and back, for ease of access whether using a compressor, charging, or whatever. After some thought about still being able to easily remove the grille if necessary, I came up with this solution at the front:

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I was going to hinge the LR logo, which would be fun and maximally discreet, but then removing the grille would be complicated - this is a snug push fit that is easily squished through in either direction, but firm enough to stay in place day to day... The cable routes back at the side of the radiator, over the plastic shroud at the edge, so no cooling or abrasion issues.

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I reckon its aesthetically acceptable... 50 A relay on the positive cable just in case, waterproof rubber boot for the plug to minimise any issues. It's a good height for mucking about with for my ageing back, and doesn't require opening anything up or fumbling around to find it...

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