Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Serviced the D4's HP6 Transmission using our independent transmission mechanic.
He replaced the plastic pan and filter with a metallic pan and replaceable filter.
Used ZF's LifeGuard 6 ATF as my indie was insistent on using the original fluid.
His assumption, which is reasonable, is that in a service situation, not all of the old fluid can be drained. In that case, different makes of fluid should not be mixed.
In a rebuild situation, you can elect to use a more economical ATF such as Fuchs.
Next service is in 60,000kms.
best wishes,
Jeff

Originally Posted by Jeffoir

Serviced the D4's HP6 Transmission using our independent transmission mechanic.
He replaced the plastic pan and filter with a metallic pan and replaceable filter.
Used ZF's LifeGuard 6 ATF as my indie was insistent on using the original fluid.
His assumption, which is reasonable, is that in a service situation, not all of the old fluid can be drained. In that case, different makes of fluid should not be mixed.
In a rebuild situation, you can elect to use a more economical ATF such as Fuchs.
Next service is in 60,000kms.
best wishes,
Jeff

Which is why we flush with new ATF through the transmission and cooler to a drain bucket to get all the old LG6 out before filling with new, regardless of fluid used. For a proper flush, you need about 15L of ATF, of which about half is used to flush, the rest to fill. Agree with not mixing fluids, but if properly flushed through, fill with your choice. Ran the D4 for over 60,000km on penrite BMV before I sold it after a thorough flush and valve body rebuild.

Prior to an upcoming 10,000klm mainland trip towing a 3.0 Tonne caravan I just had the inlet manifolds and oil cooler/filter assy replaced, and new "O" ring seals on the oil separator. MAF sensors and inlet Y section cleaned and new "O" rings etc. All pre-failure and as a matter of preventative m/ance.

Am a bit peeved having to replace them as I'd liked to have seen how many klms I got before one or both failed, however it simply wasn't worth the risk of a failure whilst travelling out of Tasmania as the chance of getting a quick fix other than some tape along the crack, would be too much trouble.

Current klms are 184,000

During the process of bleeding the cooling system etc the boost pressure sensor decided to have a hissy fit, which was fortuitous and lucky it happened now.

Due to various reasons I was without the car for 3 weeks, and used my trusty 563,000 klm MY2000 Hilux 4WD. I do love it but must confess that getting back into the D4 was like it must be when riding on a cloud if that was possible to do.

Also found the LHF lower ball joint had some wear which is extremely disappointing considering both front lower wishbone assy's were replaced 26,000 klms ago.

Ordered a new joint from the same place I got the (BRITPART) wishbones. The new joint was a Lemforder (ZF). It "fell" into the hole with roughly .010" clearance. Ordered a new Genuine Land Rover joint from the local LR Dealer and that also "fell" in to the hole.

So, what to do? Discussed it with several mates who are also retired mechanics and we decided I had two options: New wishbone assy (which it didn't need) or spot weld the new ball joint. Which we did.

Now before some of you jump down my throat for doing such a 'butcherous' thing, think about it.
A circlip retains the joint, there is no extreme load on it once in place, it doesn't have a natural design tendency to want to push out, and the spot welds simply prevent it for sideways 'slop'.

I'll continue to monitor it, and expect that in around 60,000 klms I'll be fitting a new wishbone assy due to rear bush wear.

I've had leakage problems with BRITPART fuel filters, so have crossed that company off my supply list in future.

Originally Posted by Discodicky

I've had leakage problems with BRITPART fuel filters, so have crossed that company off my supply list in future.

$ echo BRITPART | sed 's/BR/SH/'

I avoid them like the plague unless I'm capital "d" desperate.

Originally Posted by BradC

$ echo BRITPART | sed 's/BR/SH/'

I avoid them like the plague unless I'm capital "d" desperate.

They make great videos though to give some credit

Originally Posted by Discodicky

Prior to an upcoming 10,000klm mainland trip towing a 3.0 Tonne caravan I just had the inlet manifolds and oil cooler/filter assy replaced, and new "O" ring seals on the oil separator. MAF sensors and inlet Y section cleaned and new "O" rings etc. All pre-failure and as a matter of preventative m/ance.

Am a bit peeved having to replace them as I'd liked to have seen how many klms I got before one or both failed, however it simply wasn't worth the risk of a failure whilst travelling out of Tasmania as the chance of getting a quick fix other than some tape along the crack, would be too much trouble.

Current klms are 184,000

During the process of bleeding the cooling system etc the boost pressure sensor decided to have a hissy fit, which was fortuitous and lucky it happened now.

Due to various reasons I was without the car for 3 weeks, and used my trusty 563,000 klm MY2000 Hilux 4WD. I do love it but must confess that getting back into the D4 was like it must be when riding on a cloud if that was possible to do.

Also found the LHF lower ball joint had some wear which is extremely disappointing considering both front lower wishbone assy's were replaced 26,000 klms ago.

Ordered a new joint from the same place I got the (BRITPART) wishbones. The new joint was a Lemforder (ZF). It "fell" into the hole with roughly .010" clearance. Ordered a new Genuine Land Rover joint from the local LR Dealer and that also "fell" in to the hole.

So, what to do? Discussed it with several mates who are also retired mechanics and we decided I had two options: New wishbone assy (which it didn't need) or spot weld the new ball joint. Which we did.

Now before some of you jump down my throat for doing such a 'butcherous' thing, think about it.
A circlip retains the joint, there is no extreme load on it once in place, it doesn't have a natural design tendency to want to push out, and the spot welds simply prevent it for sideways 'slop'.

I'll continue to monitor it, and expect that in around 60,000 klms I'll be fitting a new wishbone assy due to rear bush wear.

I've had leakage problems with BRITPART fuel filters, so have crossed that company off my supply list in future.

I recently replaced the ball joints and one came loose. While you correct that. The snap ring is just there to retain if it moves. It's the interference that retains it. Now you effectively have the weld holding it in. I had to replace the arms on mine for that reason.just a change in lanes would make it move and bang against the snap ring. I did consider giving a go on the welder but only till the new arm arrived.
I was surprised by how much it actually tried to pull out in normal driving.

It gave me a scare today. On my way home I realised I had no sound. Didn't matter what source I selected, it was silent as a Catholic priest in the witness box. Everything else normal, so the MOST bus was working which meant the amp wasn't dead and had power. Scanned for faults... nada (probably shouldn't to that while driving but it's become a bit of a reflex). Got home, put it to sleep and when it woke back up it was all working again.

Ghosts in the attic.

My radio is possessed on occasion too Brad. Sometimes the radio volume may drop all of a sudden, or it starts to sound tinny, or the stereo drops out and it plays in mono. Then after you start the car again, it goes back to normal. It has a fair few Km's on it so I don't mind too much, just add it to the list of gripes to keep an eye on!