Cheers, Dale
PIC - It comes with the Territory
'The D3' - 2006 TDV6 HSE
2008 Kimberley Kamper Sports RV
Previously Enjoyed:
2002 Adventure Offroad Campers 'Cape York'
2000 D2 Td5 - plus!
1997 Defender 110 Wagon - fully carpeted
Added some “Dumbo Ears” and replaced the window switch which hasn’t had the “window lock” button functional for nearly 10 years after getting dusted and wet on a trip.

Cheers, Dale
PIC - It comes with the Territory
'The D3' - 2006 TDV6 HSE
2008 Kimberley Kamper Sports RV
Previously Enjoyed:
2002 Adventure Offroad Campers 'Cape York'
2000 D2 Td5 - plus!
1997 Defender 110 Wagon - fully carpeted
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						The title is an understatement, there is not a leak but a geyser. Removal of the bash plate, a high pressure wash and test drive to ascertain the source resulted in an oil trail from the bell housing to the rear of the vehicle with no clear evidence of the source. Another high pressure wash and engine run revealed a continuous engine oil flow down the RH side of the bell housing coming from the upper section of the block.
I have already replaced the oil cooler during my early ownership and went to a known source of an incorrectly installed oil filter O ring Neither were proven to be at fault.
Dr Google revealed possible failure of the brake vacuum pump seal. I am of the opinion this is the source of the leak as there is a continual flow of oil from this area when the vehicle is stationary and idling.
I am reluctant to attack the removal of the vacuum pump myself, the dexterity is degrading with age. What would I need to remove to gain access, the workshop manual appears to not describe the full process? Someone who is familiar with the task may be able to give me some instructions.
This is the short supply air pipe from the compressor cap to the centre block. It has been rubbing on the second electrical connector which must get squashed together with the lower cover fitted.
Worth keeping an eye on.
Im thinking this is what’s been giving me a small leak problem as hard to believe this reduced wall thickness was holding back 250 psi
Part # RQB000423
I worked out why I was getting the scary red triangle low fluid ‘idiot stop driving right now or you’ll kill the engine’ warning. I’m assuming that the warning will now be gone, but I won’t know until next time I do a long hard uphill.

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