Started to change out the cylinder head water outlet and the oil cooler. The water outlet had predictably failed but picked it up before any damage was done. Tell tale pink marking can be seen over the top of the oil cooler.
The drivers side intake manifold inlet and the throttle body is choked up with gunk from the EGR. So will clean this up as well.
Unfortunately hit the dreaded 3D puzzle of removing the crankcase vent oil separator before running out of time today. So will continue another day.
(Last photo from LR Time - thanks for the diagram Vera - it looks fairly accurate!)
You’ll also find all of the plastic shields on the wiring disintegrates into fine shrapnel so be careful to get that out and a good time to replace with harness cloth tape. Make sure those vertical bolt holes don’t have coolant trapped in them when you put the bolts back.
MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
You are not wrong. I have harness cloth tape all ready to go and I am constantly vacuuming up any small broken bits.
I have a lot of cleaning to be done before I even remove the oil cooler. Oil vacuum extractors are great for sucking up any moisture and small bits as well.
With the oil separator - can you get the rear seal where the oil is returned? I have the two smaller front ones for the legs where the crankcase gases are extracted, but could not find a part number for the seal at the back. Is this even replaceable?
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