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Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

  1. #6421
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    Hobart, Tasmania
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnp38 View Post
    Attachment 195106 Picked this up today after I scoured the interwebs when the penrite mobil shell oil selector guides didn't tell me much re the transfer case oil.

    So going by this forum and others seemed a choice of royal purple, ravenol or s-tec oil0005 and maybe some we don't have here.

    The guys down the local parts shop said they stopped selling grape juice as the racer crowd were going off it due to some concerns or other, they had nothing listed for transfer case, and I had rang Penrite and asked if they had a suitable but unlisted alternative and they said no.

    I did read somewhere that someone had used the Penrite BMV stuff but being a newbie to this clutch pack for transfer cases stuff I settled on the Ravenol as it seemed like the common choice and I could get it in Adelaide.

    I did see the Rock Oil stuff too but it was online only and seemed much of a muchness and once again local availability won out.

    Now who is going to chime in and tell me I screwed up, coz I'm not doing it till tomorrow so speak up now.
    Just checked my "notes", Ravenol DTF-1 is fine, as is Shell TF-0753
    My notes also say that the genuine LR Xsnfer oil is the Shell.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  2. #6422
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    I'll order some M6 flange bolts for next time, but found another fastener Metrinch is good for.

    I can sorta see the machine fitting aspect but the thing is tapered and the splines are rounded, so I can see a torque vector there that'd lift the socket off the head as it's turned. I just kept pressure on it as I torqued it up.

    It's amazing how slight the 10nm torque is on the water pump mounting bolts. My baby air ratchet nearly overtorqued them just spinning them in.

    I stripped the washer pump. Mainly I just wanted to see how it worked. Clever little mechanism. The pump is more positive displacement than centrifugal so it can create a negative pressure on the non-operating side which actuates a little sealing diaphragm. The motor was seized up. I assume the shaft seal failed. Common fault for washer pump motors.
    My new Eurospare pump arrived today. This weeks job. $45 at AllFourx4 Spares who have a good range of LR service items and less the UK shipping all works out nicely.

  3. #6423
    BradC is online now Super Moderator
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    Mar 2018
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    Perth (near Malaga)
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    Took 10 minutes to do the pump and most of that was removing and replacing 2 screws and 2 push pins from the wheel arch.

    Didn't entirely go according to plan. I ended wearing a couple of litres of washer fluid.

    There's an intermittent whine now. Sounds very much like the whine from the water pump, but quieter and comes and goes from traffic light to traffic light. I'd never have heard it with the water pump whine.

    Only 4 things left. Tensioner, idler, PS pump or fan pulley.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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