BeeGee's MY15 Disco 4 XXV build thread

[BeeGee]

G'day,

OK, yes I had the "Pulling My Hair Out" and a "New Member Introduction" thread but they didn't seem like the right threads for an ongoing build Q&A, so consolidating into this single thread from here on in.
Thanks again for all of the feedback from a number of members along my journey to purchasing a Discovery.

To recap, I'm starting with a stock standard MY15 Disco 4 XXV (tarted up HSE).
It's pretty stock standard to date with only a Redarc towpro and Anderson connection at the rear.
However, I've already purchased some 18" TuffAnts with BFG's, and a Llams (purchased from a forum member).

Future plans are pretty modest as I'd like to keep her pretty stock standard, but they include:

1. IID GAP tool
2. Traxide dual battery setup
3. Rhino rack Pioneer platform (purchased but not fitted yet)
4. APT air compressor guard (and perhaps the front guard. Not sure about the auto transmission guard)
5. Fit my existing Ironman awning (sitting in my garage ready to be fitted)
6. Fit my existing UHF (sitting on my shelf ready to be fitted)
7. Llams (purchased but not fitted yet)

Here are the original photos as she arrived (which you've seen before, but for completeness):

IMG_6712 by Bryan Williams, on Flickr

IMG_6723 by Bryan Williams, on Flickr

IMG_6729 by Bryan Williams, on Flickr

OK, so on to the build thread.

[rocket rod]

BeeGee

By the time you've chucked all that gear on you'll be pretty much setup for anything. The 2 other "options" to consider is a storage system for the back and a mitch hitch for towing. There's a few threads on here about those too. BTW if you wanted to get a long range fuel tank you can put the spare on the roof. No need for a rear wheel carrier.

Have fun, Rod.

[BeeGee]

So my first challenge is setting her up to tow my Jayco Swan Outback.

I've taken my Trig hitch shaft off of my previous tug (Pajero) and have run in to the following problems.
1. The hitch shaft fouls the spare wheel under the Disco, so the hole doesn't line up. So I will need to get a metal fabricator to trim the end of the shaft/shank by 17mm to allow it to mach up.
2. I will need to flip over the tongue to try to match the towing height of the Jayco, and also flip the Trig hitch over as well. As seen in the photo below, is this legal and acceptable?
3. The Disco has a round trailer plug. The Jayco has the rectangular plug. So guessing I will have to have the Jayco rewired to a round plug to match my new tug?
4. The Disco has an Anderson plug fitted to the rear to charge the van battery. My previous setup had this wired through the rectangular plug, but if I have to change this over to a round plug I may need to fit an Anderson plug to the van?
5. I'm keen to go down the Traxide dual battery route and noticed the kits come with or without an Anderson plug to the rear (in 6B&S, 13.5mm2). I've included a photo below of the existing Anderson plug to the rear of my car, can you tell what size B&S wiring this is from the photo to see if it is currently sufficient?

Photos below:
Test by Bryan Williams, on Flickr

(in the photo above, I have flipped it over to how it normally was on the back of the Pajero. An the only way to match the height would be to also flip the Trig hitch. Would that be acceptable?)


Test by Bryan Williams, on Flickr

Test by Bryan Williams, on Flickr

Test by Bryan Williams, on Flickr

[rocket rod]

Simple solution is to remove treg receiver and put it on top of the tow tongue. Long term solution is to get this Mitchell Bros Hi-Rise Tow Hitch – Mitchell Bros 4x4 - Mitch Hitch. Beware there are Chinese knock offs of these but they are not ADR compliant as the Mitch Hitch is. It sits where the plastic cover is for your trailer plugs so it's a lot higher and doesn't foul the spare wheel.

The black trailer plug on the Disco is for your trailer lights etc so get a converter to suit your Jayco. You may need to look at a load resistor like this Narva |
12 VOLT 21 WATT L.E.D LOAD RESISTOR to activate the Trailer Sway Assist feature of the D4. It's not essential if your trailer is light. Your car will recognise LED lights on the trailer if that's what you have.

Your current Anderson plug is getting power from somewhere but if you are installing a Traxide kit it will replace all that stuff.

I live in Nedlands so if you PM me you can come over and see my setup.

Rod

[kelvo]

From memory that tow hitch is way too long. Look in the owners manual and there is a section indicating the maximum dimensions for hitch length.

[gavinwibrow]

[QUOTE=BeeGee;2957988]
3. The Disco has a round trailer plug. The Jayco has the rectangular plug. So guessing I will have to have the Jayco rewired to a round plug to match my new tug?


Bryan, I'd recommend changing your LR round plug to one readily available in AU ie round 7 pin or flat.
I went for the flat 12 pin, BUT have separate wiring for van power (grey Anderson) and ESC (red Anderson) - now can't remember how electric van brakes connect though.
If you decide to stick with the LR round, I think I have a set of connectors you are welcome to have gratis, assuming I can still find them.

[DiscoMick]

That hitch setup doesn't look right. The shaft also looks too long. The photo below shows how it works on our Defender.
Also, I find a cable direct from alternator to 50A Anderson plug on rear bumper works best for charging the camper, because the wiring can be heavier to carry more current than is needed just to operate the brakes and lights.
Ours has 50 amp fuses each end. Tests have shown it delivering a steady 8 amps to the Anderson plug, but the Defender does not have a smart alternator like the Discovery which varies the output.
If the Traxide kit has a cable to an Anderson plug on the rear bumper, would that mean your Jayco was being powered by the second battery in the Disco, not directly from the alternator? I don't have a Disco, so I don't know how that works on Discos. Is that a good idea? If your Discos second battery was flat, would your Jayco not receive power either?

Hope that helps.

[SeanC]

[QUOTE=gavinwibrow;2958087]

3. The Disco has a round trailer plug. The Jayco has the rectangular plug. So guessing I will have to have the Jayco rewired to a round plug to match my new tug?


Bryan, I'd recommend changing your LR round plug to one readily available in AU ie round 7 pin or flat.
I went for the flat 12 pin, BUT have separate wiring for van power (grey Anderson) and ESC (red Anderson) - now can't remember how electric van brakes connect though.
If you decide to stick with the LR round, I think I have a set of connectors you are welcome to have gratis, assuming I can still find them.

My US manufactured boat trailer came with a flat 12 pin plug. When connected with an adaptor to the large 7pin round on the D3 all lights worked but not power for the trailer brakes as the power uses two pins from the row of 5. Instead of re-wiring the auto-electrician set it up so the I connect the power to the Andersen plug on the rear bumper and the rest connects to the large round 7 pin connector.

[gavinwibrow]

That hitch setup doesn't look right. The photo below shows how it works on our Defender.
Also, I find a cable direct from alternator to Anderson plug on rear bumper works best for charging the camper, because the wiring can be heavier to carry more than is needed just to operate the brakes and lights.
Ours has 50 amp fuses each end. Tests have shown it delivering a steady 8 amps to the Anderson plug, but the Defender does not have a smart alternator which varies the output.
Hope that helps.

Chains a wee bit low/long?

[Tombie]

So my first challenge is setting her up to tow my Jayco Swan Outback.

I've taken my Trig hitch shaft off of my previous tug (Pajero) and have run in to the following problems.
1. The hitch shaft fouls the spare wheel under the Disco, so the hole doesn't line up. So I will need to get a metal fabricator to trim the end of the shaft/shank by 17mm to allow it to mach up.
2. I will need to flip over the tongue to try to match the towing height of the Jayco, and also flip the Trig hitch over as well. As seen in the photo below, is this legal and acceptable?
3. The Disco has a round trailer plug. The Jayco has the rectangular plug. So guessing I will have to have the Jayco rewired to a round plug to match my new tug?
4. The Disco has an Anderson plug fitted to the rear to charge the van battery. My previous setup had this wired through the rectangular plug, but if I have to change this over to a round plug I may need to fit an Anderson plug to the van?
5. I'm keen to go down the Traxide dual battery route and noticed the kits come with or without an Anderson plug to the rear (in 6B&S, 13.5mm2). I've included a photo below of the existing Anderson plug to the rear of my car, can you tell what size B&S wiring this is from the photo to see if it is currently sufficient?

Photos below:
Test by Bryan Williams, on Flickr

(in the photo above, I have flipped it over to how it normally was on the back of the Pajero. An the only way to match the height would be to also flip the Trig hitch. Would that be acceptable?)


Test by Bryan Williams, on Flickr

Test by Bryan Williams, on Flickr

Test by Bryan Williams, on Flickr

Hi...

In order...

1. You can not use that hitch - it’s way too long (refer to posted limits in this thread).

2. The genuine LR hitch can be flipped and then the treg coupling fitted on top.

3. Have the van rewired will work better, or have an adapter made to go from 12S and 12N to 12 pin flat. You can even pick up the Andersen plug in the adapter - personally 12 pin plugs - the 5 bottom pins are poor connections and will eventually cause problems. Especially in higher current situations.

4&5. Unsure how it’s wired, where the wiring runs etc. for moderate use, as long as it’s fused up the front somewhere it’s likely ok - note it may be drawing from the primary battery so could result in a flat start battery.