I like to think of 200,000km as ‘just run in’.
Dear Brains trust,
I see this has been covered elsewhere on AULRO, but has anyone here used the CEM range of products, including the fuel additives and de-decarbonizer?
I'd be interested to know if this would be beneficial, especially to some of us "high milers" (160-200,000 km plus).
I'm currently using penrite engine flush before an oil change, and the occaisional bottle of penrite diesel injector clean, with no ill effects so far.
Coming up to 200,000km on original EGRs and manifolds.
I like to think of 200,000km as ‘just run in’.
 TopicToaster
					
					
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						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberI think it’s all snake oil and should rest with Brocky’s crystals, but hey, if you’ve got the money to spend, then it’s your choice what you do with it.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Been bagged for it before, but yes, I use and recommend their products to others. I use FTC and CRD Enhancer in my D4 and dad's Dmax, I use the flush and anti wear also.
The FTC and CRD Enhancer I always use together, seen the benefit in my D4 dad's Dmax, work Hilux X3 , mates LC79, the Toyota's needed injectors outside of warranty and settled down. The Dmax was idling terrible and settled down. Reported better fuel economy to. Not on the guage but at the bowser. Also used FTC to deglaze a screaming GM (Detroit 2 stroke) and stop fuel bug on a cat c9 with a 2000l tank.
However if you have water or bug the hands down best option is BC250 from fuel treat Australia (another story).
The anti wear is in my pulsar manual gearbox. Noticeable improvement especially when cold.
Flush used everytime I service a family car. Just because it's flush.
The main reason I CRD Enhancer in the D4 is after seeing it lubricate the injectors in Toyota's, I figured I may be able to dodge the sticky valve in the HPFP on my car. Considering it uses about 8ml per tank or whatever. It's cheap insurance.
The FTC cleaned out the tail pipe so much the first two tanks left door on the back of the car. Thought I had an oil leak.
Been using it for about 4 years now.
It won't help your manifolds, but maybe your EGR and turbos.. Dad swears by the fuel economy and the fact he doesn't need 4 new injectors
 TopicToaster
					
					
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						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberAnd touch wood - my D4 uses “****” fuel, the previous owner ran up to 30,000km on some services, and while I proactively did bearings on it recently as it had excessive end float, has had no flushes, uses whatever oil, and is not far off 300,000km. So yeah. You can use all the stuff in the world, but depending on your expectations of it’s life, I’m not sure it’s warranted.
Again, each to their own.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Thanks for the responses so far. After seeing the sec turbo wastegate fully clogged with carbon, and having cleaned out manifolds (as much as is reachable anyway) and the throttle body several times, keen de coke the engine.
If your going down the FTC or anything you add to the fuel route, wax the rear of the car first. Makes it easier to clean.
Remembering the fuel circuit is separate from the air circuit.
Cleaning the fuel up will only help the exhaust side of the turbo system. Which is great, especially since that's where the vanes live.
Have you had the oil drain mod done?
Clean air filters keep turbos from sucking oil through the seals, and therefore adding oil to the inlet side.
The right oil level is key to. I only put in 5.6L in at a change, to much oil is way worse then not enough.
 TopicToaster
					
					
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						TopicToaster
					
					
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