Is my 2.7 shagged?

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14th April 2020, 02:44 PM
discorevy

Quote:

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

This conversation has gone straight to installing a new engine for what could be a simpler issue. At this point the video would be better than what we have at this point which is nothing. You’re right though, without being in person it’s mostly impossible.

No one has suggested new engine

I have suggested it could well be broken tensioner mount , particularly if an early model with the old oil pump , which is going to involve at the least , removal of head/s , replacement of valves etc.
The OP , seeing he has the fan off could take the extra 30 minutes to have a look at the tensioner , pulleys , belt etc.
This would save the labour of the mechanic doing the same.as well as flat bed costs
14th April 2020, 02:50 PM
DiscoJeffster

Quote:

Originally Posted by discorevy

No one has suggested new engine

I have suggested it could well be broken tensioner mount , particularly if an early model with the old oil pump , which is going to involve at the least , removal of head/s , replacement of valves etc.
The OP , seeing he has the fan off could take the extra 30 minutes to have a look at the tensioner , pulleys , belt etc.
This would save the labour of the mechanic doing the same.as well as flat bed costs

Related post - D3 engine swap.
14th April 2020, 05:24 PM
Discodicky

Quote:

Originally Posted by theelms66

Won't be the crank.
Starter motor turns back of crank and cams run off the front of crank . If crank was snapped it wouldn't run . Period..

I hear what you say and agree that the crank may hopefully not be broken, however just for the record, many years ago I bought one of my sons his first car which was a Datsun 1600 and which I believed had a 'run' conrod bearing due to the classic bearing rattle it had. Drove it home carefully and stripped the engine. Broken crankshaft behind the 2nd main brg. Couldn't believe that I was able to drive it home the approx 35 klms from the chap I bought it!
14th April 2020, 05:29 PM
DiscoJeffster

Quote:

Originally Posted by Discodicky

I hear what you say and agree that the crank may hopefully not be broken, however just for the record, many years ago I bought one of my sons his first car which was a Datsun 1600 and which I believed had a 'run' conrod bearing due to the classic bearing rattle it had. Drove it home carefully and stripped the engine. Broken crankshaft behind the 2nd main brg. Couldn't believe that I was able to drive it home the approx 35 klms from the chap I bought it!

Ok so the reason it still ran was the break must have been such that there was enough interference between sections that while snapped it held together and there wasn’t enough end-float thanks to the thrust bearings for the two halves to separate.

I have a great tale of the impossible- running a 6 cylinder Porsche engine backwards, but I think I’ll save that painfully expensive tale for another day.
14th April 2020, 05:37 PM
INter674

Quote:

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Ok so the reason it still ran was the break must have been such that there was enough interference between sections that while snapped it held together and there wasn’t enough end-float thanks to the thrust bearings for the two halves to separate.

I have a great tale of the impossible- running a 6 cylinder Porsche engine backwards, but I think I’ll save that painfully expensive tale for another day.

I ran a Morris Major Elite with a broken crank..sure it was a bit noisy..but it still went. Eventually when I got a job I pulled it out and found the break was such that the two parts were keyed together by the end float bearings. Fixed it and sold it for 600 bucks🙄
14th April 2020, 06:04 PM
gavinwibrow

Quote:

Originally Posted by discorevy

probably missed what you were getting at because of your wording .
Also wasn't aware you have heard lots of these with broken tensioners , cranks to be able to give a diagnosis on a vid clip.

I wouldn't have the confidence , but I'm only a mechanic

"Only a mechanic"? More likely a guru in the likeness of JC et al!
14th April 2020, 06:21 PM
Tins

Quote:

Originally Posted by Discodicky

I hear what you say and agree that the crank may hopefully not be broken, however just for the record, many years ago I bought one of my sons his first car which was a Datsun 1600 and which I believed had a 'run' conrod bearing due to the classic bearing rattle it had. Drove it home carefully and stripped the engine. Broken crankshaft behind the 2nd main brg. Couldn't believe that I was able to drive it home the approx 35 klms from the chap I bought it!

Yeah, but that was the L16... They often did things that were unbelievable..
14th April 2020, 06:25 PM
Tins

Quote:

Originally Posted by INter674

I ran a Morris Major Elite with a broken crank..sure it was a bit noisy..but it still went. Eventually when I got a job I pulled it out and found the break was such that the two parts were keyed together by the end float bearings. Fixed it and sold it for 600 bucks🙄

Those three main bearing B Series things were tough old birds.
14th April 2020, 08:27 PM
Discodicky

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tins

Those three main bearing B Series things were tough old birds.

Yes, a very tough engine indeed.
Only the very early B series engines had 3 main brgs; after around from memory 1962 ish they went to 5 main brgs.
That is one very classic and venerable engine family.
Started at 1500 cc, (MG Magnette, Wolseley, Austin etc) then to 1620 cc, (Morris Major Elite, Austin lancer, etc) Then finally to 1800 cc (MGB, Austin 1800 etc)
Early MGB's had the 3 main brg engine.
I've seen 'em bored and stroked to just under 2 litres, crossflow (pushrod) heads and poking out serious hp.
Did my apprenticeship on all BMC cars in 1967 [bawl]
14th April 2020, 09:50 PM
discorevy

Quote:

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

"Only a mechanic"? More likely a guru in the likeness of JC et al!

Kind words indeed , hope you're keeping well Gavin

Quote:

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Related post - D3 engine swap.

Thanks, I only get time to randomly pick posts during the day.
So another mechanic has said the engine is shagged.
Things Ranga could do for himself.
Remove timing cover , if you don't have any E torx sockets for the pulleys / harmonic balancer, remove all the bolts for the cover, enough to access the drivers side cam sprocket with your hand.
With one hand on the cam sprocket turn the crank backward and forward with the other using a breaker bar etc.
If the cam moves back and forward as you do the same with the crank with no freeplay then the timing gear train could be ok.
Any freeplay before the cam starts to move , you can get the cover off .

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