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Thread: Warning Will Robinson - multiple D4 fault alerts!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    NSW South West Slopes
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    10,078
    The system over-ride is available only for the newer suspension ecus fitted to the L405, L494 & L462 Disco.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW South West Slopes
    Posts
    10,078
    duplicate
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,660
    Quote Originally Posted by GregMilner View Post
    Justin you might have some more intel on this. The Indy has replaced the ABS sensor with the new one and all the dashboard faults are still coming up, even though their diagnostic equipment specifically pointed at that sensor. He says the wheel bearing is fine, and that it could be some kind of fault in the ECU. The EAS isn't working so it's sitting in access mode. They don't have time to do any further investigation for a few days as they're flat out.

    Any clues?
    Where is the vehicle at? In Perth?
    If there's any damage to the sensor tip from the sensor ring on the CV hitting it then only a wheel bearing can cause that. How ever as it is easy to check, and they haven't found any play in the bearing then only leaves wiring or harness damage. Damn...😢
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Dunsborough
    Posts
    864
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Where is the vehicle at? In Perth?
    If there's any damage to the sensor tip from the sensor ring on the CV hitting it then only a wheel bearing can cause that. How ever as it is easy to check, and they haven't found any play in the bearing then only leaves wiring or harness damage. Damn...😢
    No the car is at my local Indy, TVR in Dunsborough. They haven't had time to do anything more than swap out the right rear sensor cable (no change to the warning lights) but I'll ask them to check again the wheel bearing, before they start the tedious process of tracking down damaged wiring. Oh, and I've been advised to have the battery and alternator checked as well, problems in those areas could be sending the entire electrical system into a tizz.
    2016 Disco 4 SDV6 SE - LR tank, RWC, Gap IID, UHF, GOE compressor guard, Hema HX1.
    2008 Mercedes E350
    2012 Mercedes 250 CGI Estate (sold)
    2012 L322 TDV8 Luxury (badly missed!)
    2010 RRS 3.0 (sold)
    2007 Audi TT Quattro 3.2 (sold)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW South West Slopes
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    10,078
    All those faults will occur if an ABS sensor fails - they are not indicative of a voltage problem.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Point Cook, VIC
    Posts
    751
    The problem with the D3/D4 ECUís is the system will go into melt down when it gets confusing signals - voltage fluctuations seems to be a common cause of this. But this could be bad battery, bad alternator, a bad earth, a bad splice, a damaged cable, or a dodgy sensor, or a dodgy switch.

    When you look closely at how the wiring has been finished off it looks like not enough attention to protecting wires, and possibly sourcing cheap cable where the outer coating goes hard and starts to break down with age.

    Bugs me that one of the safe modes it reverts to sometimes is to drop the suspension rather than just locking the suspension at normal height.

    I have been chasing down a similar fault now for over a year. Fortunately I can adjust the lowered height back to normal using the GAP tool and can ignore the dancing amigoís.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Whitsundays
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    137
    Quote Originally Posted by GregMilner View Post
    No the car is at my local Indy, TVR in Dunsborough. They haven't had time to do anything more than swap out the right rear sensor cable (no change to the warning lights) but I'll ask them to check again the wheel bearing, before they start the tedious process of tracking down damaged wiring. Oh, and I've been advised to have the battery and alternator checked as well, problems in those areas could be sending the entire electrical system into a tizz.
    Hi Greg, had All the same symptoms. Gap tool actually said front L wheel sensor issue. I replaced the sensor With OEM sensor and within 2 days same issue. Took it to local specialist and he replaced it with genuine LR one and 15000 klms later no drama. He said to never use anything but genuine LR sensors and wheel sensors are top of the list. And if damage wasnít the cause of the failure then often he replaces the lot.
    I donít know enough to argue but proof is in the pudding.
    Cheers
    Steve
    2014 white TDV6, compomotives with BFG KO2, rocksliders, Redarc DBS, Mitch Hitch, TPMS, icom UHF, GOE compressor and bash plates, hidden winch Mount, GAP ID tool.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    89
    Have you thought about the brake light switch?
    Ian

    D4 MY12 TDV6 2.7l 6 speed

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    batemans bay NSW
    Posts
    48

    fault alerts

    As others have mentioned in this thread, the battery is the first thing to check when getting multiple faults for no apparent reason. With a weak battery, when you start the car, the voltage to the various computers drops too much, causing them to throw faults. I would get the battery checked properly, before replacing anything else.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Fit a LLAMS then drive away!
    Is that right, Graeme?
    If the vehicle registers a fault that drops the EAS to the bump stops, will the LLAMS rotary switch allow you to raise the vehicle to a driveable height? Or do you mean the red button, the purpose of which I've never really been able to figure out?
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army engineering trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

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