10 years ago there was a recall on these vehicles to replace the HPFP and the brake booster - the dealer did both in one day, so an independent who knows what they doing should be able to do yours in the same time.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
I've seen time quoted of ~4.5 hours on a 2.7. I reckon that's absolutely do-able for a mechanic who does more than a couple per year. Honestly it cost me ~$1800 in parts, and I was getting quotes of ~$2500 for a complete "drive in / drive out" job. I don't think that's at all unreasonable if you don't want to take it on yourself.
A bit OT, but what causes the HPF pump to fail? If the low pressure pump's filter isn't restricting flow and the fuel is clean and free of contaminants, wouldn't you expect both pumps to last indefinitely?
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
Cheers, Dale
PIC - It comes with the Territory
'The D3' - 2006 TDV6 HSE
2008 Kimberley Kamper Sports RV
Previously Enjoyed:
2002 Adventure Offroad Campers 'Cape York'
2000 D2 Td5 - plus!
1997 Defender 110 Wagon - fully carpeted
The low pressure pump is a brush driven DC motor. It's going to wear out. Likewise, the feed pump on the HPFP is a vane pump. Regardless of the quality of lubricant, they are going to wear to some degree and where those wear particles go and what they interfere with would be a matter of luck.
"Apparently" the damage starts in the vanes of the feed pump which shed "sparklies" and these then cause damage to the bores/pistons in the control valves and it's on like Donkey Kong. I have 3 at home waiting for teardown and inspection.
My current information comes from an indie who has torn down a few and a good chat with one of the guys at United Fuel Injection (who supplied my new pump).
I'm told it does not take much moisture or other non-lubricating contamination in the fuel to really kick the process off. Looking at the tolerances involved, it wouldn't take much to score a bore.
Our trouble appeared to start after a tank of fuel from a low-volume independent retailer in the South West, but who really knows.
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