15-A Pillar cover cutout with Dremel.jpg
Clamp the A Pillar plastic cover and use the Dremmel plastic cutter wheel to cut out the sleeve for the metal arm that will support the snorkel firmly alongside the windscreen.
16-A Pillar mount in place.jpg
Again, paint the bare metal holes and be generous with the sikaflex under the plate, the rivet heads and in the rivet holes to make a good water seal.
17-A Pillar re-attached.jpg
Reattach the A Pillar plastic cover.
18-Lock-tight box bolt threads.jpg
Prepare the snorkel body for mounting by inserting the threaded metal grub screw inserts. Apply some lock thread to keep them tight.
19-Remove wheel and guard for access.jpg
Prepare the access into the side cavity.
20-Bolted tight.jpg
It is a squeezy tight fit to get to the bolts.
21-Fiddly bits need extra help.jpg
... and for the last hardest to reach bolt in the tight section you will need someone with skinny arms and small hands... so I subbied this out to SHMBO!
22-Final Result.jpg
Happy with the final result at the end of a long day...
BTW, when you reinstall the airbox, you will probably find that the new rubber grommet seal has pushed the box further into the engine bay so that the small conical drain funnel at the bottom right hand side of the box will no longer settle down into the rubber lined hole in the engine bay floor. not a problem as you will probably want to seal off that hole to prevent water entry anyway. I decided to leave the one way valve in the floor of the main air box so that it can let water out, and prevent water from entering. Not sure if that is a good idea or not... but seems to make sense to me, although I know this is a bit of a vexxed topic.
23-Error display.jpg
... but it didn't end there. Because I had to start the engine when the air box was off so that I could use the power steering to reposition the front wheel... I now had an air intake error on the dash display to deal with.
24-GAP IID Error Message.jpg
A chance to put the GAP IID Tool to good use. It quickly presented the error logs and allowed me to select the culprit, and clear.
25-Error Cleared.jpg
... no more errors... happy days.
Overall... if you have the time to take on a snorkel install, I would recommend the quality of the Safari kit, directions and templates. It all went together very well. Plus, you have the ability to oversee the quality of the install and all the sikaflexing, painting, sealing that you are sure will keep the D4 intake water free.
Naps.


 
						
					 
					
					 did a fair amount of research and landed on the Safari Snorkel in readiness for a trip up to the Cape and around Oz.  Tossed up whether to do this myself or get a shop to look after it... but what the heck... it gave me something to do and another opportunity to learn more about the D4.  On balance, it is fairly straight forward... apart from the bloody A Pillar drilling that took a whole day to complete.  I don't know what the LR team have used ... but that metal is as hard as a cat's head and ploughed through time and cobalt tipped drill bits at an alarming rate!  Anyway, I will post the photos and text across a (2) part post:
 did a fair amount of research and landed on the Safari Snorkel in readiness for a trip up to the Cape and around Oz.  Tossed up whether to do this myself or get a shop to look after it... but what the heck... it gave me something to do and another opportunity to learn more about the D4.  On balance, it is fairly straight forward... apart from the bloody A Pillar drilling that took a whole day to complete.  I don't know what the LR team have used ... but that metal is as hard as a cat's head and ploughed through time and cobalt tipped drill bits at an alarming rate!  Anyway, I will post the photos and text across a (2) part post: 
				
				
				
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					 Originally Posted by dirvine
 Originally Posted by dirvine
					
 
						
					 
			
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