Thread: Extra gearbox oil cooler for towing Y or N ?

Originally Posted by scarry

SO doing that you will virtually cover the complete air intake with new gear.The original intercooler was a lot smaller and sat down low, not restricting the Ac condenser or rad much at all.Although the 3L may be larger?And tranny cooler was part of the rad.

Hopefully the Ac condenser and rad can take the reduction in airflow.
Just saying,as we work with airflows across heat exchangers all day.
Something to be mindful of, which I am sure you are

On another note i wonder what temp the overheat light for the auto comes on?
I do know other brands come on at around 145 to 150 degrees.
If the auto is not locked up, it will also overheat a lot quicker than if it is locked up.

All good considerations.

The 3.0 has a larger iC up the front in front of the AC and radiator. Where the 2.7 has this split arrangement.

I’ve heard no negatives, but will be monitoring it all as it goes with some probes in the earlier days of the install to see what heat loads are presenting.

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Our camper is roughly the same 1.4-1.5t fully laden. No additional cooler fitted and been all over, admittedly not in high extreme temps, but never had any issues. Towed all through Karajini, Exmouth and Monkey Mia, as well as Esperance and Bremer Bay at summer time, on gravel and blacktop.

Before that a smaller camper trailer from Perth to Melbourne and back, 8400km in 6 weeks.

Would be interesting to see what difference an additional ATF cooler will make.

Do you have the 6 speed? How is the towing with the camper? Do you struggle up hills?

I tried towing a full sized caravan a few months back, it handled like a pig, I hated it. All that swaying and all, you just couldn’t fall a sleep at the wheel(not like you want to).

Tried a camper, similar weight to yours, although better to tow, but felt a struggle up hills( high rpm) Seeing other newer cars on the road with caravans at a breeze driving past.

Originally Posted by imaz

Do you have the 6 speed? How is the towing with the camper? Do you struggle up hills?

I tried towing a full sized caravan a few months back, it handled like a pig, I hated it. All that swaying and all, you just couldn’t fall a sleep at the wheel(not like you want to).

Tried a camper, similar weight to yours, although better to tow, but felt a struggle up hills( high rpm) Seeing other newer cars on the road with caravans at a breeze driving past.

Swaying is all about caravan, not car. Ball weight and weight locations make all that happen. High revs up Hills are good for the car means the TC isn't working hard and over heating the oil. These engines produce good torque up high in the range.

My 3.0 has no issues whatsoever towing our camper, its like its not there.

We have a MY17 jayco camper trailer with the independent J tech suspension. Tek P3 brake controller and ballast / load resistors wired into the campers led lights. No sway, excellent braking and just stable comfortable towing.

I have fitted adjustable rear sway bar links, set them ~10mm shorter than std rods to stiffen up the rear, and i run the Treg Bros polyblock hitch.

Recent trip to Albany saw the car sit on just under 1800rpm the whole way, getting around 13.5l/100km and thats with 5 people, full camper and full fuel load and at 100-110kmh Up hills it drops down a few cogs to maintain momentum. Overtaking is effortless and smooth. Ambients of around 35 deg C the engine and trans temps steady, gauge never ever moves.

Mines the 6spd, the 8 spd will see less rpm and sub 10L/100km towing a similar load.

I will say the most important thing is to get the car to recognize its towing, esprcially if your camper etc has led lights. Load resistors solve that and adjust the braking bias, throttle response etc respectively.

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

My 3.0 has no issues whatsoever towing our camper, its like its not there.

We have a MY17 jayco camper trailer with the independent J tech suspension. Tek P3 brake controller and ballast / load resistors wired into the campers led lights. No sway, excellent braking and just stable comfortable towing.

I have fitted adjustable rear sway bar links, set them ~10mm shorter than std rods to stiffen up the rear, and i run the Treg Bros polyblock hitch.

Recent trip to Albany saw the car sit on just under 1800rpm the whole way, getting around 13.5l/100km and thats with 5 people, full camper and full fuel load and at 100-110kmh Up hills it drops down a few cogs to maintain momentum. Overtaking is effortless and smooth. Ambients of around 35 deg C the engine and trans temps steady, gauge never ever moves.

Mines the 6spd, the 8 spd will see less rpm and sub 10L/100km towing a similar load.

I will say the most important thing is to get the car to recognize its towing, esprcially if your camper etc has led lights. Load resistors solve that and adjust the braking bias, throttle response etc respectively.

I noticed you emphasised the load resisters - why? I assume they are just so camper trailer lights work? I have led trailer lights, they “appear” to function fine. Do I need load resisters?

I’m running the same 6spd, sdv6. I feel it’s out of breath up hills, one time pedal to the floor and it wouldn’t go any quicker or drop a gear.

When towing, or more precisely when the car knows its got a trailer connected, and it does this by sending a signal down both turn signal lines. You get a green trailer icon on the dash each time you use the turn signals. The anti sway / stability control is enhanced and braking bias is automatically adjusted, as is throttle response.

Without this green icon, the car behaves like it does without a trailer. The auto levelling when stopped is also disabled when towing.

Re engine responsiveness, the transmission is adaptive, sometimes takes a bit of spirited driving to wake it up....or fit an i drive EVC throttle controller...see separate thread


Check air filter, maf and map sensors and inlet system and manifolds for leaks.

Originally Posted by imaz

I noticed you emphasised the load resisters - why? I assume they are just so camper trailer lights work? I have led trailer lights, they “appear” to function fine. Do I need load resisters?

I’m running the same 6spd, sdv6. I feel it’s out of breath up hills, one time pedal to the floor and it wouldn’t go any quicker or drop a gear.

Don’t get trapped in the “D” for dummy syndrome.

Drive the vehicle, use the gears, and Sports mode to make it more reactive.

If the vehicle had been working hard for example - it won’t want to unlock the TC and heat everything up even further.

Originally Posted by Tombie

Don’t get trapped in the “D” for dummy syndrome.

Drive the vehicle, use the gears, and Sports mode to make it more reactive.

If the vehicle had been working hard for example - it won’t want to unlock the TC and heat everything up even further.

It’s been on sports when towing, still suffering. I think as others mentioned, the resisters (I hope) will fix it - symptoms are as described. I definitely don’t get the trailer symbol when the caravan or camper trailers in use.

I’m just sussing out what resisters to get, and where strategically to attach it. Makes sense to position the resisters at the trailer lights, though would they have any issues for other vehicles...