I didn't know Electrical Engineers had a trade (My father holds that qualification also)
I'm an electronic technician "by trade", which these days means I'm qualified to repair VCR's and CRT's. So I'm thoroughly obsolete.
I use a hardened pick to pop the swaging on the case (ground from 3/32 tool steel lathe blanks because I damaged a few screwdrivers abusing them for this initially), then tap the shaft at the front which works the bell loose over whatever grungy bit of swage was left. A cautious wiggle gets the brushes over the end of the commutator. The whole lot gets hosed out with isopropyl alcohol in an aerosol can until there is no trace of carbon left. The commutator cleaned up if required (rarely more than a good wipe with an alcohol soaked cloth). The sintered bush in the casing gets some ISO32 Royal Purple synthetic oil and the nylon bell gets some Electrolube SPG (Special Plastics Grease). Probably both over the top, but I have them handy for other stuff. Actually, the SPG is magic for anything where metal and/or plastic is involved.
I've not had to replace or remediate a brush yet. Just a lot of cleaning and care. Re-assembly in the reverse, but use of a dental pick to separate the brushes. Test with a bench power supply and re-swage with a screwdriver and calibrated hammer.
There are 2 motors in the lock. The lock motor and the super-lock motor. I've not seen a failed super-lock motor yet in either LR or VW. The lock motors do tend to work hard.
Replacement motors are available (they are all Mabuchi or equivalent) and model suppliers have gear puller kits designed for helis which enable you to remove and replace the worm gear on a spare motor if required. The shaft length is the critical bit, but as the youtube dude demonstrates, you can always just replace the brush-end.
While I haven't seen it, apparently the superlock motor is a major failure point in the VW's and results in one of two options. A 50mm hole saw to the outer door skin, or a 50mm hole saw to the inner door skin. Lucky for me I've found loads of pounding heavily on the door while repeatedly pressing the button eventually gets it open.
Best of luck. The front passenger lock motor was the first thing to go on my car (2 days after I picked it up). It had the good humour to lock out my mother-in-law, so I forgave it.
If you are anything like the Electrical Engineer my old man is, you'll muck it in with a blindfold on.


				
				
				
					
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