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Thread: Radiator Overflow Bottle - how does the low level sensor work? Coolant Level Low Warn

  1. #1
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    Question Radiator Overflow Bottle - how does the low level sensor work? Coolant Level Low Warn

    One of our MY12 2.7 TDV6 D4's is intermittently, but regularly, displaying a Coolant Level Low warning on the dash. I had a look on the parts breakup and there is a Liquid Low Level Warning Switch on the bottom of the Radiator Overflow Bottle:





    I swapped this sensor over from our other MY12 D4 TDV6 2.7 and the fault remains - making me think that it's not this sensor experiencing the issue.


    Of note is that sensor seems to just clip/pop onto the bottom of the Radiator Overflow Bottle and no coolant leaked out when it was removed.
    Is there therefore more to this Coolant Level Low system such as components inside the bottle?

  2. #2
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Yes, and the float in the bottle “loses its float”. A new bottle is the answer.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Yes, and the float in the bottle “loses its float”. A new bottle is the answer.
    Cheers.

    With new bottles genuine only or are any of the pattern units (Britpart, Meyle-HD, AllMakes, Eurospare, EAC) ok for this part? I ask as the genuine doesn't seem to have an overly great life and is 3.5 times the price of pattern offerings.

  4. #4
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    I bought an aftermarket and it was faulty from the start. I had to reuse my old genuine sensor to get it to work. I’d go genuine with hindsight
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  5. #5
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Before I started doing my own work on the car our indy fitted an aftermarket part which turned out to have a pinhole leak in one of the seams, so another visit for diagnostics to find the leak and delay while a new one was procured.

    I'm sure whatever they "saved" by recommending the aftermarket part was eaten in diagnostics and labour, and it sure cost me more in time than I was likely to have saved in cost.

  6. #6
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    Mine was replaced as well, just use the genuine product and forget about it.

    From memory the part wasn't that expensive.

  7. #7
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    I used the cheap Britpart locking mechanism. Had an awful handle feel and when it started to fail again (sooner than genuine) I went back to genuine and much better. Tactile things are the worst to cut corners on!

    I have had some non-genuine wins but more often than not it’s been a false economy
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  8. #8
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    I used a Britpart one on my D3. Diagnosed and fitted myself. Worked fine until selling car. Probably in for 12 months before I sold it. IIRC it was a PIA to get hoses back on (but I could be wrong)
    Gone 05 D3 ARB Front Kaymar Rear Winch E-Diff LRA Tank Dual Battery

    Current 2015 SDV6 SE. Tow Pro Mitch Hitch Llams C/motives 70ltr w/tank 2 x comp Traxide BMS-2 x Aux 150w Solar Uniden Engel ARB drawer F/Runner rack Light bar

  9. #9
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    I bought mine from British Auto Parts in Bayswater Victoria - they had me sold when the description just says:

    “This is not the cheap Britpart item.”

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    “This is not the cheap Britpart item.”
    Haha, I have read that description at some point...
    Gone 05 D3 ARB Front Kaymar Rear Winch E-Diff LRA Tank Dual Battery

    Current 2015 SDV6 SE. Tow Pro Mitch Hitch Llams C/motives 70ltr w/tank 2 x comp Traxide BMS-2 x Aux 150w Solar Uniden Engel ARB drawer F/Runner rack Light bar

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