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When I did it I found all I had to do was move the return fuel line from the bracket in the passenger side of the vee and with a bit of tetris the separator came out and went back with no flex, stress, trimming or brute force. I certainly didn't go near the glow plugs.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
Now, having said that it took me 4 hours of attempts to get the bugger out the first time. It was a kind of lift and rotate motion. Wish I'd videoed it.
Where a lot of the pushing and flexing takes place is with the top of the oil separator pushing up against the plastic trim beneath the rear lip of the engine bay. An extra 5mm clearance in this area would make a big difference.
I stopped after about 30mins on my first attempt, slept on it a few nights, came back removed the glow plug connectors (agreed probably not needed) and disconnected the electrical plug beside the injector pump and I did have it out in 5mins on the second attempt. Refitting was as quick.
Was probably just luck to find that Tetris sweet spot!
I too wish I recorded it as when it did come out it happened that quick that I am not exactly sure how I did it. But I did stop to take a photo (a few posts back) when it went back in at the moment the passenger side leg cleared the intake manifold. Once this is cleared, the rest was easy.
I cheated and did it when i had the heads off and it took less than 10 mins, but the down side was i guarentee it to far longer to remove the heads than it would to do an oil cooler replacement the way you guys did it..
I never had any symptoms but knowing my luck if i didnt replace it then it would have failed a week after i put the engine back together.
Cheers Bulletman
@PerthDisco - as you are about to remove the oil separator again this time to get to the fuel injector pump. One other tip I would make.
Once you remove the fan and have disconnected what you need from the front, put a step in front of the car and climb up and sit on the front radiator support panel (with legs between the radiator and engine). It is a comfy flat solid surface, and then everything at the back of the motor is in arms reach when you lean forward. I also set up a few lamps on either side to light up the operating table.
No need for any gut wrenching stretching out across the engine bay looking like you are doing a planking challenge.
Got the idea seeing how Epic_Dragon works on her D2.
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Originally Posted by DiscoDB
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I did this more by putting a very absorbent yoga mat on the engine and lying on it and it was very helpful since getting access to the hidden T45 bolts at the rear of the pump is extremely tricky and a real reach . Same for removing and refitting the rear belt and tensioner.
I used a T45 bit in a 10mm flex head ratchet spanner and could not image any other way to do it. All hpfp bolts were well loctited and tight all the way.
The other side bolts wanted to spin out the extensions on the pump and was an hour of fiddling to get them released.
Following the LR Time video instructions exactly the crankcase breather was out in under 10 minutes thank goodness.
Starts and runs so far so good.
No broken fuel connections but observed the following early fail on the coolant temp sensor. Broken plastic now held in by cable ties till replacement comes.
Thanks to many forum experts I consulted on this job. I hope the end to the issue.
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Almost finished this job but I'm finding that my aftermarket alloy coolant inlet won't line up after changing the oil cooler. When I connect it the two passenger side bolts will line up but the driver's side holes are about 1/4 inch off lining up with the threads in the head.
Anyone had this before? I'm worried that I'll have to unbolt the cooler again and re-align it all in the vee. Or will a standard plastic inlet have more play and clearance? Eight hours of fighting and now this!
