Thread: Kings light bar

Originally Posted by PeterOZ

I guarantee I know more about such things than either of you.

I bow to your superior knowledge of such things. So would like to ask you three questions to help improve my knowledge.

Question 1 - Why is the fuse optional in the schematic that you posted?

Question 2 - Why didn’t you use a schematic that was correct for the question being asked?

Question 3 - What colour cable and where is the cable located to get the high beam trigger in a MY16 D4?

Originally Posted by Tombie

Why not just post a suitable schematic?

It’s ok though mate - you know nothing of my Electronic/Electrical qualifications or experience so you go right on making assumptions.

Here:

This is probably just being overly cautious, but if using the high beam supply as the auxiliary lighting relay trigger, I would then use a diode protected relay to prevent any fly-back effect for when the auxiliary lighting relay switches off.

This is just to prevent a reverse current high voltage spike flowing back to the FET used to control the high beam when the added relay switches off.

If high beam used old school fused mechanical relays I wouldn’t be concerned with voltage spikes, but the use of FET’s for switching probably warrants the extra protection - even if only for peace of mind.

Sorry - better show this in a schematic.....hope it is the right one.....

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

This is probably just being overly cautious, but if using the high beam supply as the auxiliary lighting relay trigger, I would then use a diode protected relay to prevent any fly-wheeling effect when the auxiliary lighting relay switches off.

This is just to prevent a reverse current high voltage spike flowing back to the FET used to control the high beam when the added relay switches off.

If high beam used old school fused mechanical relays I wouldn’t be concerned with voltage spikes, but the use of FET’s for switching probably warrants the extra protection - even if only for peace of mind.

Sorry - better show this in a schematic.....hope it is the right one.....

Yes. Excellent recommendation.

Didn’t give it much thought as I always fit them as a matter of course.

In NZ I've been advised by the WOF place (VTNZ) that as they are "work lights" they must be wired separately and NOT connected via headlight or high beam switching. spotlights (max of 4 white lights shining forward) are to be switched via High beam, but NOT light bars
strangely enough it appears that laws for DRLs are different down under as well. in the UK & Europe the DRLs MUST be wired to turn off when lights are turned on - over here people drive with DRL's on all hours of day and night even with their headlights on. its a right PITA for oncoming traffic - only a matter of time before the night time accident stats rise because of it

Originally Posted by MBE_NZ

In NZ I've been advised by the WOF place (VTNZ) that as they are "work lights" they must be wired separately and NOT connected via headlight or high beam switching. spotlights (max of 4 white lights shining forward) are to be switched via High beam, but NOT light bars
strangely enough it appears that laws for DRLs are different down under as well. in the UK & Europe the DRLs MUST be wired to turn off when lights are turned on - over here people drive with DRL's on all hours of day and night even with their headlights on. its a right PITA for oncoming traffic - only a matter of time before the night time accident stats rise because of it

AU requires DRLs to turn off when headlights on - or in the case of factory fitment they must Dim.

Light bars are recognised as driving lights now and must be switched and only available on the high beam circuit.

Wasting time and effort with the Kings light bars of < 40”

I have their 40” slimline and 9” round spotties and love them. Had a 24” I bought for SWMBO’s Hyundai and ended up binning them as almost entirely ineffective.

I’d recommend something more effective

I’m switching over to STEDI.

Originally Posted by BrianElloy

Wasting time and effort with the Kings light bars of < 40”

I have their 40” slimline and 9” round spotties and love them. Had a 24” I bought for SWMBO’s Hyundai and ended up binning them as almost entirely ineffective.

I’d recommend something more effective

I’m switching over to STEDI.

Stedi are awesome!

Work lights are just that but are different to driving/spotlights. Don’t mix up the two.

Worklights typically are to be independently switched and I think I recall can’t be linked to reverse lights etc - completely independent.

I have a rear facing spotlight for camping which is wired to my second battery with separate switch. I have a 40” light bar up front wired to the high beams with a cutoff switch to turn it off for residential use.

Each jurisdiction is different. Follow your local requirements