YarnMaster
After losing all electrics last week as explained below, I contacted Canada, and the following is provided for general information.
Inquiry: Hi folks. Keep up the excellent customer service - none better.
Not saying Tool is at fault, but for the second time in 12 months, I went to insert the tool into the OBDII port whilst sitting at the traffic lights and everything went crazy. Turned ignition off for a reset, then everything went dead, and had to call towtruck to move car and large caravan under tow.
Have just got back into town to check the car a week later and the main battery (12 month old heavy duty Varta) is at 4.8V so I\'m wondering if a massive short occurred? Have you heard of anything like this before? Car will go to mechanic when he can fit it in next week for further diagnostics.
The actual tool also has a slightly loose casing (now tightened with an electrical tie, and there is what could be a broken screw ratting around inside - came like that from the previous owner.
Cheers Gavin
Hello
There are two possibilities where the tool could affect the car;
1- There is a short in the board. This will be stopped with the fuse breaking on the car. Damage is none, except for the fuse.
2- The CAN bus is shorted or has a bad connection at the OBD port. This has happen only a handful of time, I can count them on my hands. This is a communication bus which has no power, its like a computer signal. All ECUs CAN hardware are protected thus will simply shut down and the dash will light up like a Christmas tree. Removing the short effectively cures this and its going to be back to normal after sleep (lock doors, wait a few minutes).
None of these scenarios can kill a battery. You need a significant current draw which is not possible here.
I would assume a bad connection at the OBD port may have temporary disabled the CAN bus.
Tightening the pins would be next;
https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/faq
Why does my IIDTool (or EASControl) work intermittently or has stopped working?
ENDS
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
ChatterBox
SubscriberNot sure about the GAP tools, but the Rovacom units’ manual explicitly state not to plug in with the engine running. Only with ignition on. Mines is always plugged in and just activate the app on the phone before driving off to bring up live instruments mode.
Tend to agree with GAP that your OBD port has a fault that has tripped the CANbus. Your battery as per (separate post) sounds like a collapsed cell or internal short to cause it to drop that low.
OldBushie
For a good battery to go that low for no other reason I seriously suspecting your alternator may not be healthy.
ChatterBox
SubscriberCan you leave the iiD plugged in at all times?
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
TopicToaster
SubscriberYou can, but you have to remember to disconnect from it formally in the app before shutdown of the car, else it will keep the ECU’s awake and your battery will drain faster.Originally Posted by John_D4
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
TopicToaster
SubscriberNever had a problem. I plug and unplug mine all the time with the car driving without issue. Not suggesting it’s right or wrong, but it’s never been a bother.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
YarnMaster
New alternator compliments of DazzaTD5 is approaching 15 months old after the original gave up near Leinster.
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
OldBushie
Hmmm. Unlikely then, yet the most common reason for massive power draw is one letting go.
Master
SubscriberA friend of mine plugged in his GAP tool into an extension lead (for easy access) and headed off on his first camping trip with a few other cars and within 100m of the house all the bells and whistles went off in his car and it stopped. After 30mins of fruitless diagnosis, decided to remove the GAP tool from the cable and plug it in directly and everything worked perfectly again. My guess is one of the cable pins was not connected properly and cause the massive number of problems.
Rod
D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, Toyo Open Country, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, OA Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Tracklander rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel
ChatterBox
SubscriberAfter reading this thread I’m feeling less like getting an iiD to be honest! The TD5 nanocom was plugged in all the time and I would turn it on as I started the car as a habit.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
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