Thread: Suspension Fault

These all appear to be comm codes, most likely due to the replica compressor you've fitted not talking to the BCM.

The Hitachi (and I think the AMK, but not sure, these were fitted to later models, so I'm pretty sure you have a Hitachi unit) compressors are fully rebuildable, you can get kits off Ebay that includes everything you need. most likely you've got desiccant dust in the lines or a leak somewhere.

Check that the airlines are fully pushed home into the top of the air struts and at the compressor outlets. do the soapy water check at each valve block.

Good luck

I doubt you need the new struts although they may be tired, more likely to be the front valve block and as Eric said the cheap pump.
Better off rebuilding your original compressor and putting it back in.

The valve block can leak back internally which is not an uncommon issue.

Thanks for the positive responses.

Yes it is the Hitachi pump.
Yes. The message with the code was a communication problem. But where to start?

At the time of the original problem I didn't have a code reader so I was guessing and
I bought the Hitachi replica as i'm not sure if the original pump works still. I have read that if the fault light on the dash is ignored then the compressor motor burns out.
I am unable to check for air leaks presently as the pump replica does not run and therefore no air.
Is it possible to to check the old pump motor on the bench and if so what wires power the motor.
As for the valve body. Can the front valve body be overhauled or is it better to just buy a new one.

I feel I need to establish if the old pump motor still works.
As "suspension fault" was showing on the dash display and the old pump was not working I presume that the motor is burned out.

Any help appreciated
Graeme

If the light was still orange there's a good chance the compressor still works, when it gets to red and ignored it will run longer then burn out.
Valve block can be rebuilt with a seal kit but instead of stuffing around just buy a new one unless you have time to wait for parts.

Check first the large main fusible link fuse in the engine bay fuse box closest to the front of the car. It’s a rectangle yellow colour 60amp or thereabouts. They blow with age and you can see looking above through the clear top. Then no juice to the relay or compressor.

You can bridge the big terminals (female side) of the EAS relay and force the compressor to run as another test.

They are big cables that run to the compressor main power feed.

Does the valve block throw up a error message, I am guessing mine has a faulty valve block which can be bought for $100 approx from ebay cheapest or $400 genuine (referring to the fronts) only, but I do not get any faults when checked on the icarsoft code reader. My rears sag as well, so guessing I will need to replace both front and rear. cheers

I recently bought a genuine made in Japan Hitachi compressor from Island 4x4 delivered for just under $AU800 and fitted it last week. Solved my slow to raise warning. I did not consider the cheap knockoffs at that price.