Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: Self service

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,170
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post

    (Many a person has got distracted during and oil change for instance and forgotten to refill or even fit a drain plug back on)
    My first week at Base Workshop, changing the oil on a IIA, standing on the bar filling it up, stepped down and promptly went A over T on the pool of oil on the ground. Much mirth from those around me..... Never forgot the bung ever again though.


    I would also suggest using your phone to photograph anything you are not totally familiar with to aid in re-assembly.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Ocean Reef WA
    Posts
    3,098
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Been there, done that Tins. One of my first mistakes when servicing a taxi moons back. Head mechanic walked past me and said “Take a lot of oil, don’t they. Look down.”
    So I did and there it was running between my feet and out the garage door and down the road gutter.😁
    AlanH.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,170
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by ATH View Post
    Been there, done that Tins. One of my first mistakes when servicing a taxi moons back. Head mechanic walked past me and said “Take a lot of oil, don’t they. Look down.”
    So I did and there it was running between my feet and out the garage door and down the road gutter.😁
    AlanH.
    Was your face as red as mine? Still, mistakes are the best way to learn, if they don't kill you.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Perth, AU
    Posts
    1,002
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Are you guys the reason we use vac pumps now? :-)
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    504
    Total Downloaded
    0
    A certain generation would need counselling if this happened to them, as a mistake like that would have to be made by someone else as they surely could not be at fault.
    2012 Fuji White 3.0 D4, Rear view camera, Hi-line sound, E-diff, Xenon lights, ARB winch bar, Lightforce 240 50w HID. Brads sliders.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Perth, AU
    Posts
    1,002
    Total Downloaded
    0
    So to finally close this out, for any future budding mechanical novices thinking of attempting…

    It’s honestly dead easy.

    You’ll need a 32mm socket for the oil filter housing, and I used a vac pump for the oil itself.

    Sucked the oil out, undid the filter and changed it out. Torque to 28Nm
    Then refilled with 5w30 enviro+ synthetic oil.

    Minor concern, when before starting the car the dash oil level showed ‘below minimum’. So, rather than cranking her over, I changed the air filter and cabin filter.

    Recheck the oil level, and now showing as all good. Started her up, and she is purring away again.

    For the sake of completeness I also checked the oil level using IID tool, but more because I had it, and not because this was a necessary step.

    Old oil back into the container the new oil came in, ready to drop off.

    A small investment needed to get the tools if you don’t have them, but I can now change oil much cheaper and faster than using a mechanic.

    I think I also feel a little closer to the old girl, like we’re a team now :-)
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, SA
    Posts
    7,545
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Whilst in there did you reset the service counter Self service

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Plenty, Melbourne
    Posts
    6
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi all.
    Long time lurker, new subscriber. 2015MY SDV6 SE non-DPF 130K kms.
    I’m also looking at doing my own servicing, due to having more time than money.

    I was hoping someone here would be able to confirm the correct oil for my front and rear non-locking diffs. I read that Castrol saf-xo has been supersede by Syntrax long life 75w-90, but the Repco site says it’s not suitable for my vehicle. A quick search through the Aulro archives indicates that it is in fact the correct oil, so I take it that Repco is wrong.

    Also, my local Ford dealership sold me Motorcraft AXO 5W30-APFD, which is fully synthetic and meets Ford spec WSS-M2C913-D. Land Rover obviously specify -C, but according to oilspecifications.org​-D ‘is especially recommended for Diesel engines where M2C913-B or M2C913-C oils were initially required’. Has anyone used, or could comment on this oil?

    Given the discussion around blown engines, I don’t want to risk using the wrong oil. However if the Motorcraft is suitable, at $150/20Lt it is a pretty good buy. If not, I’ll return it. I know a lot of you use Penrite so that would be an option, or is Castrol Edge Professional so much better that it’s worth $24/Lt?

    Thanks for any advice

    Disco Simon

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,770
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by Disco Simon View Post
    Hi all.
    Long time lurker, new subscriber. 2015MY SDV6 SE non-DPF 130K kms.
    I’m also looking at doing my own servicing, due to having more time than money.

    I was hoping someone here would be able to confirm the correct oil for my front and rear non-locking diffs. I read that Castrol saf-xo has been supersede by Syntrax long life 75w-90, but the Repco site says it’s not suitable for my vehicle. A quick search through the Aulro archives indicates that it is in fact the correct oil, so I take it that Repco is wrong.

    Also, my local Ford dealership sold me Motorcraft AXO 5W30-APFD, which is fully synthetic and meets Ford spec WSS-M2C913-D. Land Rover obviously specify -C, but according to oilspecifications.org​-D ‘is especially recommended for Diesel engines where M2C913-B or M2C913-C oils were initially required’. Has anyone used, or could comment on this oil?

    Given the discussion around blown engines, I don’t want to risk using the wrong oil. However if the Motorcraft is suitable, at $150/20Lt it is a pretty good buy. If not, I’ll return it. I know a lot of you use Penrite so that would be an option, or is Castrol Edge Professional so much better that it’s worth $24/Lt?

    Thanks for any advice

    Disco Simon
    Penrite Pro gear 75-90w full synthetic is the go, about $60 for 2.5l which is enough for both diffs.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Plenty, Melbourne
    Posts
    6
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks Loanrangie.

    With regards to the engine oil, I’ve managed to source the Castrol Edge Professional for a half decent price, so will return the Motorcraft oil.

    Disco Simon

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!