Thread: Tailgate release switch failure, replacement options?

Originally Posted by Ghost-Who-Walks

Ha - classic - the exact same fault has just occurred on mine (2010 D4).
Went through the process of trying to source a new part (for switch plus complete loom, I was quoted $180 from British Offroad and $240 from another LR parts supplier).

So, have also just ordered a $27 part from ebay - got the D4 switch plus loom for $31, but plan to just replace the switch/handle by cutting and soldering the wires. And I'll have a spare loom if needed!

Keen to see how these all go - if there's a better eBay part/option (or all of the same quality). Mines on the way...

Rob

So, part 1 of this exercise - cut my old handle/switch out yesterday (the 2 black wires), and tried soldering the new one in (that I had cut out of my complete handle + loom that I got from eBay).
The wires were in pretty poor condition, and turns out one of them is completely corroded back into the door where I can't get to the wires.
Got some solder to hold, but then pulled on it and the whole wire just broke further down (badly corroded copper wire).

So, part 2 is yet to be done - have to remove the rear door handle and install my new wiring loom completely - after soldering my new switch/handle back into the loom!
Will keep this post updated. Such a simple thing...

Originally Posted by wiggy781

Just called the local stealer, LR do not sell the switch and wiring - I would need to purchase the complete assembly including lamps, $400 +

All the dealer BS aside, JLR do sell a genuine switch with plugs, LR071910.
I think with a factory camera on the upper handle the part number is LR071911
As noted the wires become very brittle/corroded and can be hard to wire in just a micro switch, hence why I replace the switch assembly.

The other 2 parts for the tailgate are:
LR017470 - lower tailgate latch
FUG500010 - lower tailgate actuator

Also if the actuator is failing or failed it can cause the software to I guess lock it out and it needs to be re-initialised. I cant remember exactly.

Brittle wires greeted me too! Will need to remove the complete switch assembly me thinks, I have the proper disco switch complete with the lamp plugs. Question is where do I disconnect the camera wire, at the camera end or maybe at the blue connector per the pic below?

Job done...separated camera wire at blue colour connector. Very tight from a wire length perspective, the evil bay AM switch had the lamp wires equal length left and right where as the OEM was longer one side. The thin wires to the hatch release button have little slack in them, sure it would last longer with less strain on such thin wire. Another 25mm of wire all round would help for sure.

I have got into the habit of releasing the hatch with the key fob (but doesn't work with engine running) so the switch will probs last a long time!!

Originally Posted by Ghost-Who-Walks

So, part 1 of this exercise - cut my old handle/switch out yesterday (the 2 black wires), and tried soldering the new one in (that I had cut out of my complete handle + loom that I got from eBay).
The wires were in pretty poor condition, and turns out one of them is completely corroded back into the door where I can't get to the wires.
Got some solder to hold, but then pulled on it and the whole wire just broke further down (badly corroded copper wire).

So, part 2 is yet to be done - have to remove the rear door handle and install my new wiring loom completely - after soldering my new switch/handle back into the loom!
Will keep this post updated. Such a simple thing...

Just to finish this one off... The switch wiring was fairly corroded, so it was good to replace the whole loom.

Pulled the top rear tailgate door handle off the car - thanks to a youtube video, it was fairly straight-forward, once you know where the plastic clips and other parts are.

Replaced the old loom with my new $30 eBay part (which looked fairly good quality, and was an exact replica in terms of connectors, wire length etc).
Noticed one of the number plate lights was out, so did that whilst I was in there.
And put it all back together. Worked like a charm, and it's great to have the door handle working again!

So, the eBay part (so previous comment on this thread) looks like the goods!

Rob

Yes, this happened to me today in the D4.

I replaced the switch in our D3 about 7 years ago. At the time, I recall that the removal of the handpiece was a destructive exercise. The plastic clips break off, rendering trying to service the microswitch irrelevant.

I enquired about spares today. For the D4, Land Rover only supply it as part of the whole assembly including numberplate lights etc. Quoted $538, which is way too expensive.

In the meantime, the tailgate will open, when pressing Keyfob and activating the hand switch at the tailgate, simultaneously.

Thank you Scott for the Ford Focus suggestion. Jefferson Ford said that the Focus Part is now obsolete from Ford. No longer stocked.

I have ordered a Discovery Mk3 / Mk4 (sic) tailgate switch from eBay at the Link that Tombie provided in this thread. $31.00 delivered Sydney. Up to 10 days delivery time. Just perfect.

If I do not report back, you can assume that it all went well.

As always, the decision support provided at the Forum is superb. Thank you everyone.

For those who like the idea of fitting a failsafe lever that looks factory fitted, then this kit from LRP is worth considering:
LRP Upper tailgate kit for Discovery L319 - Land Rover Passion
I fitted this a few years ago and whilst I've never had to use it in anger, it has been handy on remote outback trips when I've needed to sleep in the car.

For D3 owners pushing and holding both door lock / unlock buttons on centre console pops the tailgate.

Yes the eBay ones work fine.

You can epoxy the captive nuts back into the handle once removed.