Reply With QuoteFrom what I understand there’s another hole above the accelerator. I asked this question a while back for the same reason but I haven’t actually gotten around to finding the hole yet.
Super ModeratorScouting for ideas. I'm looking at something around 8mm2 or larger (copper, not "automotive" size) down to the rear. Everyone seems to use the "spare" grommet to the right of the brake booster (viewed from engine side of firewall), however in my vehicle that's not "spare" and is therefore not viable. Does anyone have any other neat locations to poke a moderate sized cable through?
On another note, pulled the tailgate handle off today. 1 of the 10mm studs and 3 of the torx bolts pulled the inserts out of the handle. Yay for UK rust. A clean up, and a bit of thread repair later they're glued back in. 24 hour Araldite with a couple of hours in the fan forced oven at 80C and it's looking a bit more solid. I'll put them back in with a bit of anti-seize and hopefully next time they won't cause so much grief.
ChatterBox
SubscriberFrom what I understand there’s another hole above the accelerator. I asked this question a while back for the same reason but I haven’t actually gotten around to finding the hole yet.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
LordRover
SubscriberIt's to the right of the brake booster when looking from the front, on manual cars it's for the clutch master cylinder apparently.Originally Posted by John_D4
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Master
SupporterMy grommet near the brake booster was chokkers after running Traxide, light switch and UHF. No room left when I installed the Cel-Fi a couple of years back. Auto electrician ran it next to steering column. Worked fine.
2014 SDV6 SE, Fuji White, ARB bar, Fyrlyt 5000, Pioneer Platform, Traxide D4-5S, Maxxis 980 Bravo, GOE Compressor Plate, ICom-450 UHF, Red Arc Tow Pro.
Elite Murray 2 Caravan 24'4" Tare-2917kg, ATM-3500kg
Super ModeratorThat is the one I refer to as “to the right of the brake booster” and oddly enough it has a clutch master cylinder behind it. I had a poke around today looking for the one by the loud pedal. I’ll have a better look tomorrow when I get the covers off inside.
LordRover
SubscriberDon't think there is one there, at least not with room to squeeze a cable thru.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
OldBushie
There certainly is one. Right down the bottom left looking from engine bay.
I have 2 6B&S in it.
Super ModeratorRight, back on task. I *was* going to do what I've done on every car since time began which is a nice fat fused double insulated positive cable from the battery to the back of the vehicle and a good ground at the back somewhere.
I've been having a squiz at the Traxide docs (planning on an ABG-25 for the fridge in the boot) and noticed that every run to the back of the car is twin. Is there an issue using the body as an earth return on the Discos for higher current stuff?
OldBushie
Hi Brad and with most new vehicles, it is hard to know what is a good earth return and what is a second chassis that is not so good as a HIGH current return because of insulation.
It is just safer to run both the positive ( + ) and negative ( - ) cables, guaranteeing that you reduce the potential of a high resistance point in the circuit.
It is also easier to fault find problems if they occur.
Also note, with D3s, D4s and RRSs, it is imperative that you run the cabling in a safe route through these vehicle, otherwise you can be up for some very expensive repair bills.
Master
Near the brake booster, there is a massive trunk of wiring looms through a large grommit. I routed 4 x 8awg through that. I use a pickup tool claw from the inside, and then fish the wire through - otherwise you need to move the TCM out the way first which is another pain.
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