Reply With QuoteMy advice would be to buy a 2.7. They have far less issues than the 3.0L engine. If you’re going high km 3.0L you might find most of the issues have been resolved by around 200k km.
I have a 3L and I speak from experience
Hey All,
Im in the Market for a 2010+ Disco4 Diesel 3.0TT to tow my 1000ish kg Light Offroad Camper and family up to Fraiser Island. I have an '07' petrol Jeep Cherokee V6 at the moment but my Main issue is Fuel economy and safety features(Babyseat anchor, airbags,trailer sway etc). Ok so here is my Questions so far-
○ How many Klms is too many?(looking at an SE with 289,000 at the moment)
○ What Price should I Pay?(around 30K Budget)
○ What Issues do I look for?(eg radiator, air suspension, timing belt/chain)
○ As I'm spending alot of $$(for me), I'd like the HSE so I get all the features possible for my money. Is it worth it? Or can I settle for SDv6 or SE models??
○ I want this car to Last a minimum of 10 years, so Honest feedback please. Anything I need to repair/replace before a long trip?
○ Lastly what essential Features do I need to add for a trip like Fraiser Island? (Winch, Tyres, Racks, Bullbar, Maxtracks, Sand Anchor etc)
Thanks for your time and feedback, I've been in the market and researching for several Months now and hit a deadend I can't find any other helpful info online
Help me Obiwan Kenobi, your my only Hope! 😉
Taz(Melbourne, Victoria.)
TopicToaster
SubscriberMy advice would be to buy a 2.7. They have far less issues than the 3.0L engine. If you’re going high km 3.0L you might find most of the issues have been resolved by around 200k km.
I have a 3L and I speak from experience
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
What about Fuel economy and power? I've read that the 3.0TT are quite more fuel efficient because they have more power and struggle less under load, is this true?
Also what kind of issues do you refer to? Are they problems I can nip in the bud before they happen if I was to buy a 3.0TT with 200k+ Klm??
TopicToaster
SubscriberGet it a power upgrade and you won’t notice the difference. Bugger all fuel eco difference and you said you’re only towing a tonne, not three.Originally Posted by Tbagg01
Manifolds split, turbine control valves go (all the additional twin turbo complexity), throttle body splits in two. I’ve had all that go and it’s around $10k worth of repairs. Plus the 3L have a habit of throwing their crank out of bed which has never happened on a D4 2.7l. The 3L engine is anywhere from $20k-50k to replace whereas the 2.7L can take a Ford Territory engine for a few grand replacement.
Go for a 3L but forewarned is forearmed.
I spent 10K near abouts having a body off to replace the bearings in the crank / conrods after the end float was found well out of spec. I did this while doing other work in the hope to avoid crank failure later.
My gearbox is now cactus and that’s around $7k rebuild. I’m at 300k km.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Ok that's alot if issues! Thanks for your Honesty.
I'll definitely be re-considering the 3.0L.
You mentioned upgrading the power of the 2.7L? Like a diesel chip or something?
You don't by Chance know what issues come with the 2.7L do you?! Lol
TopicToaster
SubscriberIn the D4 they tend to split the top intercooler hose. That’s about it. Very few issues. In the D3 they were more problematic
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Swaggie
BAS chip is the go,wouldnt go anywhere else, had one on mine for around 7yrs,no issues, and it was definitely noticeable.
Others have said very relevant info.
Mine was low mileage when I sold it to a member on here.
No engine issues, but definitely had EAS issues, and a few other niggles,EPB comes to mind.
If you can't do repairs yourself, i would move on, as an 11yr old vehicle, with those k's is going to have issues.
These vehicles are very complicated, there is a lot to go wrong.
Repairs can be very expensive.
Maybe try to stretch the budget to get something a bit newer, or less k's.
Anyway,good luck with it all.
I love mine, but if you can't do all the work yourself and can't wait for the big ticket items to come from UK, it'll cost ya.
It's a cost that's in my opinion worth it. It's a like driving a Mazda 2 in a car park and a truck when your towing.
Would I buy another one.. Dunno.. did I tell my best mate not to buy one to tour Australia. Yep.. if you can do it all yourself.. Worth it.. If you on the road.. $$$
Potential engine issues aside. Lower control arms to be replaced are $700 ish for parts..I press my own bushes in for around $200.
The air suspension in my opinion is reliable and economical, the compressor is rebuildable and replacement struts are both cheap and easy to fit.
The other huge plus is you can have a gap tool ( scan tool land Rover specific) in the glove box for about $600, cheap and not available in other makes.
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