Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: Roof Rack Holes

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, SA
    Posts
    7,547
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rocket rod View Post
    You'll have to explain that one a bit better. Are you talking about plastic plug of some sort?
    Like this


    eBay and Supercheap shops have them

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,770
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by rocket rod View Post
    This is looking to the rear of the car and you can see a pop rivet at the far end. I will be removing this current track so will need to fill in the pop rivet hole. That's all I need to know, the best way to do that. I'm not after info on how to mount a roof rack as it's a different brand and mounts differently to the Rhino.
    Attachment 170412
    Bloody butchers, there is no need for rivets when there are perfectly good threaded holes in the roof already.
    If you will be covering it with another track or trim piece then a well sealed stainless rivet may be the easiest way.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    4,335
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Is the rivet going into the vehicle body or is it a rivet to hold the end cap of the rail in place?
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,770
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Is the rivet going into the vehicle body or is it a rivet to hold the end cap of the rail in place?
    Rod said body but it could be just the end cap with any luck.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    Bloody butchers, there is no need for rivets when there are perfectly good threaded holes in the roof already.
    If you will be covering it with another track or trim piece then a well sealed stainless rivet may be the easiest way.
    No that is how the Rhino system works - the mounting holes in the do hold the tracks but they are not at the ends of the roof and if the tracks were left unsecured at the ends there is always a chance they could catch on something - so the system has a cap that slides on the end of the track and is pop riveted on in the indent to the roof. Works fine. The original LR trim is prone to lifting at the front as mine did on my RRS and is now held in place with super glue - less elegant than the Rhino cover and pop rivett.

    Rocket Rod - you pic does show what I was thinking you were menaing - as it has had a pop rivet in there all this time, I would just put in a new rivet and to ensure it does not leak put a bit of sealant over the shaft of the rivet. I low dome rivet would be best to ensure whatever goes over the top has clearance.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,770
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    The LR rail is no different, the screw only goes into plastic to hold the end caps on and they aren't at the end either.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    576
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    Thanks for the replies. I'm off fishing for 2 weeks so can't reply to any more suggestions.
    Rod

    D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, Toyo Open Country, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, OA Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Tracklander rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Baldivis WA
    Posts
    2,293
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Why compromise your roof with a pop rivet? If already there then a blind stainless dome rivet and a dab of sealant will work.

    The rhino mounts fit over the top of thr lr covers, i used wet area silicone to seal and also the hold the lr cover strip in place at the ends. Has not come loose in 3 years of using the rack.

    Would be interested in seeing what different rack mount you are going with, the rhino platform and backbone system is pretty good imho.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Tingha NSW
    Posts
    86
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Roof rack

    Quote Originally Posted by rocket rod View Post
    Thanks for the replies. I'm off fishing for 2 weeks so can't reply to any more suggestions.
    Buy blind rivets too.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Brisbane,some of the time.
    Posts
    13,888
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I fitted the rhino tracks on my D4,they need the supplied blind rivets as per fitting instructions.After ten years no issues at all.

    Just drill out existing rivets, remove other screws, take off tracks, and either fit a blind rivet into the hole, or the plastic Christmas tree plugs as per Tombies pic, and with the correct sealant, all will be good.

    Easy as,then move on to something worth worrying about

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!