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Thread: Electronic Gremlins

  1. #11
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    I would agree - every fault known to man comes up with a faulty alternator.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #12
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    Good thought but alternator replaced about 12 months ago. Also car starts absolutely fine every time.

    Two interesting observations. When OBD2 device plugged in and testing battery with engine off: 10.0 -10.4 V (bad), engine running 14V.

    When I go into "secret" menu on the UI and go to battery it also says 10.2V (when engine off). This makes me think that there might be an issue with the battery monitoring or battery management module.

    Hopefully LR with their SDD software can sort this out and not break the bank.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Halliday View Post

    Hopefully LR with their SDD software can sort this out and not break the bank.
    You would be better going to a good Indie,such as Justin Cooper,who is on here and also the AULRO FB site at times.He lives in Tassy.
    Send him a PM,there isn't much he doesnt know about LR's.

  4. #14
    josh.huber Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    You would be better going to a good Indie,such as Justin Cooper,who is on here and also the AULRO FB site at times.He lives in Tassy.
    Send him a PM,there isn't much he doesnt know about LR's.
    This may be the best words ever given. Don't pm Indies such as him just call and turn up on time. Training is very poor these days for all businesses, the Indies make sure they know the dreamers act like they do

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Halliday View Post
    No I haven't done that thanks. Does one just hunt around for them, or is there a list of earth locations I might be able to get hold of?
    Andrew
    .. have you downloaded a copy of the Workshop Manual?
    It's about 5,000 pages long and has pretty much everything in it you'll want to know .. including complete electrical diagrams.
    If you have the time, look at the various faults you are getting in relationship to the electrical circuits and you may find a commonality ... especially with regard to a common earth point.

    (FYI D4 Manual: My Files)
    2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
    (Build Date: 08/01)
    Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
    ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
    Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
    12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
    245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's


  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapserv View Post
    .. have you downloaded a copy of the Workshop Manual?
    It's about 5,000 pages long and has pretty much everything in it you'll want to know .. including complete electrical diagrams.
    If you have the time, look at the various faults you are getting in relationship to the electrical circuits and you may find a commonality ... especially with regard to a common earth point.

    (FYI D4 Manual: My Files)
    .. or better still ... purchase the Workshop Manual on CD on here from the Forum 'Shop'. I think it covers from 2010-2016.
    2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
    (Build Date: 08/01)
    Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
    ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
    Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
    12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
    245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's


  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapserv View Post
    .. have you downloaded a copy of the Workshop Manual?
    It's about 5,000 pages long and has pretty much everything in it you'll want to know .. including complete electrical diagrams.
    If you have the time, look at the various faults you are getting in relationship to the electrical circuits and you may find a commonality ... especially with regard to a common earth point.

    (FYI D4 Manual: My Files)

    Thank you! This will keep me busy

  8. #18
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    UPDATE

    UPDATE

    So its all fixed (I think). Long story that I will lay out in point form. As I can't criticise businesses I will simply state the facts for people to make up their mind. At the end of the day, all the comments made in the thread were correct.

    - out of exasperation I took the vehicle to the LR dealer here in the south of Tasmania.
    - I explained everything that was happening in writing including that the service screen was saying the battery voltage was low (10.2 volts) with the engine off.
    - For $400 they diagnosed a broken bluetooth module, a broken keyless vehicle module, a broken bonnet latch, a broken turning headlight, and an intact electrical system.
    - After rebooking the repairs they replaced all of the above ($1K for each of the modules)
    -All was good for about 1 week when it started again (bluetooth still worked and bonnet latch and alarm fixed, but car still not starting randomly and flickering headlights and adaptive headlight warning still going off).
    - return to dealer. $400 to have the car for a week and not find anything wrong.
    - I became fixed on the concept of a short and the earth connection. I have limited abilities but the earth behind the relay fuse box looked dodgy. I tried but could not work out how to get to it.
    - Took the vehicle to auto electrician (Tony Bennett/EFI Hobart), who within 1/2 an hour was on the phone to me describing the MELTED earth connection
    - quick and cheap fix and the car now behaves perfectly. Lights, starting, bluetooth etc. Voltage is reading as it should which is most satisfying.
    - So the earth was the problem after all, as postulated by many in this thread. I'm disappointed I didn't have the technical abilities to pursue this myself from the beginning. I'm also disappointed that this basic stuff wasn't picked up by those I paid $$$ who should have known better.

    Thanks everyone and I hope this post helps somebody in the future.

    Andrew

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Halliday View Post
    Thank you! This will keep me busy
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Halliday View Post
    Hi There,

    I have a D4 2010 HSE and i'm got a whole series of seemingly unconnected electronic gremlins, and I guess I'm hoping that people out there can tell me what's going on before I go around the bend!

    The vehicle has cornering lights as an option and bluetooth.

    These problems are intermittent and have been occurring on and off for over a year. They are:

    1. An electronic clicking sound from the passenger compartment (?fuse box) , headlights flicker and then a warning light that the cornering lights are faulty. This has happened about a half a dozen times but in between there is no problem.

    2. The car alarm randomly goes off. e.g in the garage. This is becoming more and more frequent and in the last week has occurred almost daily.

    3. The engine immobiliser won't tun off. e.g car unlocked, car turns over but won't catch. new battery in smart key. Locking/unlocking car has no effect. only solution is to lock car, walk far away and wait 15-30 mins. Randomly fixes itself.

    4. Bluetooth phone is down. No phone can connect (or find it in options). Have tried the following solutions from other forums. a/ Disconnected the battery - bluetooth worked but dropped out after 5 minutes. b/ Pulling the fuses 68, 67, and 64 which reset the AV system. This worked for about one trip in the car - and now doing this again has no effect. Have also replaced these fuses with new ones.

    My car battery is about 2 years old. I have had a single flat battery in that time. Why it went flat I don't know - I was away for 2 weeks though. I recharged it over 2 nights and it has been fine ever since.

    I'm wondering if there is a common issue that is easily fixed? Would using an OBD2 reader help pinpoint the issue? Loath to take it to the local dealer who will charge me $$$ just to diagnose the problem (which could be incorrect).

    Thanks

    Andrew

  9. #19
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    So you paid the dealer the $400 to diagnose a range of issues and had that work done.

    Car still faulty so you pay another $400 to the dealer again - why did you pay this if the car wasn't fixed first time?

    Problem turned out to be an earth - have you taken the car back to the dealer to get the unnecessary modules taken out and the old ones put back in at their expense and get a refund for all the unnecessary work.

    Yes I am naive - but on more than one occasion I have done exactly what I suggested above.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #20
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    Yes sounds pretty stupid of me doesn’t it. As you can imagine, the circumstances weren’t quite like that. The second trip was made on the basis of the first being misdiagnosed and incorrectly treated. They would not release the vehicle until I had paid the $400. FYI the second time they suggested I replace the low pressure fuel pump and relay for $1300 as it had thrown off code, I obviously declined and asked for the car back. I was acting in good faith and It’s a sad sad state of affairs.

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