
Originally Posted by
paulsalter43
Had our 2013 D4 3.0l 8spd since new, 150,000km. Tow a 9m 2500kg boat up and down the coastal highway with the odd dirt road/track/ corrugation excursion and a little beach work now and then.
Have used very reputable workshop up till last year averaging $1000 a year servicing with one bad year at $3500 when suspension/brakes where done. I have absolutely no complaints and extremely satisfied with service and value for money. It tows my boat effortlessly and is just a pleasure to drive and is dependable. post COVID/2020 I’m doing more myself due to $$$.
Below.
- rear hatch latch actuator replaced twice (first time LR part, Second time I bought the $30 Ford mondeo eBay equivalent as replacement &top tip - install a rear hatch emergency pull cable on lower door and tuck in trim surround as soon as it starts playing up, as it’s a bitch to get to and fix if you can’t open it the back doors -heaps of YouTube examples)
- drivers door lock actuator replaced twice (I paid $750 for the first one using LR part, and just did the second swap with $20 eBay Range Rover cheapie myself( YouTube powerfulkid )
- front and rear suspension bushing at 100’000lm as they were making noise - it was cheaper at shop to replace whole control arms, rather than labour to press bush out and in. This one hurt and with disc rotors/pads I think it came to $2500 at shop.
- coolant sensor in overflow bottle stops working and “low coolant” codes, sensor not replaceable but the whole bottle just slides out and in and was about $100 from memory.
- I do oil and filter every 10,000km myself now
/ I do fuel filter when i start getting codes for water in feul ( which seems to be whenever I do a trip and use those self service pods in central Qld)
And that’s it - not bad for 8 years in a highly optioned performance vehicle I reckon
- I want to get the ZF8 serviced but don’t currently have the coin for lifeguard fluid or shop rates - so looking closely at the recent posts on the alternatives.
Any obd2 scanner does a reasonable job of looking at codes and resetting them and getting out of restricted performance mode (yellow triangle). I use a eBay $20 wifi module and my phone.
The engine/box are awesome- but there will be limitations to what we can do. Body off frame to get to turbos etc….
If you can do the engine oil/filter change and fuel filter change yourself then you can easily do the auto oil change yourself!
Using Penrite BMV the cost will be around $100-150 odd depending on how many times you decide to change the oil.
Plenty of info on Google how to do it providing you have the means to accurately know the auto oil temp.
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
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