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Thread: Why would Traxide LED suddenly start red/green flashing?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi again Gavin, and quick question, do you have the switch on the In-Cab Module set towards the LED or set away from the LED.


    Under normal operation, the switch should be sent away from the LED and this allows the cranking battery to assist your auxiliary battery in supplying power for your accessories while the motor is off.


    By doing this, when you start your motor, because the “cranking battery” is possibly down a bit, your D4’s BMS ( Battery Monitoring System ) will “see” that the cranking battery is not fully charged and will run the alternator at a higher voltage for a longer time.


    This action rapidly charges both batteries at the same time.


    If the switch is left set towards the LED, your cranking battery can be kept in a near fully charged state, most of the time, depending on your driving habits and this can mean that in a shorter driving time the BMS will determine the cranking battery is fully charged and it will lower the operating voltage more often, and why your may be seeing your SC80’s LED flashing the way it is.


    Another cause of this is when you have fully charged your batteries with a battery charger and then gone for a drive. Again, because your D4’s BMS sees the cranking battery is fully charged, the BMS lowers the voltage to reduce fuel consumption.
    Tim, I've been well trained by you for many years via my prior USI 160, and always leave the switch away from the LED. As per my first post in this thread, batteries were almost fully charged when I left home, and it was about an hour into the trip when the system suddenly decided it needed a boost and the 4/5 reds and then a green cycle came on for a while then back to faded green, then no light at all. This all happened in the dark while I was concentrating on not hitting any wildlife, so forgive my limited observations.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post

    If your LED is constantly flashing Red/Green/Red/Green, your alternator is running at more than 15.5v. This can happen in cold, VERY cold conditions and is usually something that only happens in Northern Europe or Canada, in winter, but how cold was it when this happened?
    Sorry - missed this bit and yes it was hovering about 0 celcius at the time - so question answered in multiple parts.
    Cheers
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eevo View Post
    ive had this happen adelaide hills about zero degrees. only in the 1st min or two of driving.
    and i cant remember how i checked, but voltage was more like 14.95/15.0
    Hi Eevo, I use to set the Overvoltage trip at 15.1v but I had a few customers in Europe that found their Land Rover alternators would sometimes go higher than that in winter, so the latest version of the Overvoltage trip is now set to 15.5v.

    The higher operating voltage varies from one model of LR to another.

    15.5v is proving the right level as the primary reason for the Overvoltage cutout is to protect against a runaway alternator, which will go as high as 18v, but something that is very rare these days.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Eevo, I use to set the Overvoltage trip at 15.1v but I had a few customers in Europe that found their Land Rover alternators would sometimes go higher than that in winter, so the latest version of the Overvoltage trip is now set to 15.5v.

    The higher operating voltage varies from one model of LR to another.

    15.5v is proving the right level as the primary reason for the Overvoltage cutout is to protect against a runaway alternator, which will go as high as 18v, but something that is very rare these days.
    thansk tim, looks like its working well.
    Current Cars:
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  5. #15
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    From my GAP Tool: Here is proof of the BMS requiring more than 15V.
    Voltage SP.jpg
    + 2016 D4 TDV6

  6. #16
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    Apologies for hijacking this thread, but my LEDs always flash 4/5 red then a long green. Is that not normal/ok?
    "Vader" MY 2016 HSE, Black Pack, Toyo 265/50R20 AT2, Traxide Dual Battery kit

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy View Post
    my LEDs always flash 4/5 red then a long green. Is that not normal/ok?
    Hi Birdboy, while your motor is off, yes.

    While your motor is running and you have NOT been running any accessories while the motor was off. If you get that LED operation while your motor is running, it usually indicates your CRANKING battery is fully charge.

    SPECIAL NOTE, if you are running accessories, like a fridge, while motor is off, make sure the isolator is running in SHARED mode, with the switch set towards the LED.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Birdboy, while your motor is off, yes.

    While your motor is running and you have NOT been running any accessories while the motor was off. If you get that LED operation while your motor is running, it usually indicates your CRANKING battery is fully charge.

    SPECIAL NOTE, if you are running accessories, like a fridge, while motor is off, make sure the isolator is running in SHARED mode, with the switch set towards the LED.
    Thanks Tim!
    Yes flashes when the engine is off.
    I must admit I think I have been running with the switch away from the LED all the time - regardless of whether I have the fridge in or not.

    Is that bad?
    "Vader" MY 2016 HSE, Black Pack, Toyo 265/50R20 AT2, Traxide Dual Battery kit

  9. #19
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    Hi again Birdboy and it is NOT bad but the best way to get maximum benefit from my system and your batteries.

    Setting the switch towards the LED, in STORAGE Mode, should only be done when you know you are not going to be using your vehicle for some time.

    For normal everyday use, leave the switch set away from the LED.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi again Birdboy and it is NOT bad but the best way to get maximum benefit from my system and your batteries.

    Setting the switch towards the LED, in STORAGE Mode, should only be done when you know you are not going to be using your vehicle for some time.

    For normal everyday use, leave the switch set away from the LED.
    Hi Tim
    hope I’m not hijacking the thread but I’m now a bit confused.

    We are camping in FNQ and have had rain for the last few days. I use a 110w flexible solar panel plugged in to the grey Anderson plug at the towbar through a Victron Bluetooth controller to keep the dual battery system topped up but with the overcast conditions the controller showed 11.8v and my fridge had turned off.
    Not having driven the car for 3 or 4 days should I set the switch towards the led, or away from it?
    cheers
    David
    2016 Discovery 4 SDV6 HSE, Mitch hitch, Traxide dual battery, LLAMS, iCheck TPMS, APT side steps and compressor cover.
    2016 AOR Matrix Pop Top camper trailer, now sold.
    2023 Sunseeker Desert Storm (aka Titanium Hardcore ATX)

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