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Thread: Why would Traxide LED suddenly start red/green flashing?

  1. #1
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    Why would Traxide LED suddenly start red/green flashing?

    Scenario - recently "fixed by Tim" Dual battery system after auto elec wiring issues.

    Left home 0430 in the dark yesterday morning to drive 600 km to Kalbarri with almost full batteries.

    About an hour into the trip the LED went from dull green to the charging flashing red and green, and lasted for about 20 - 30 minutes.

    Car has only done 58K km, so I would think unlikely to be a defective alternator, and both batteries are only a couple of months old.


    Was it suddenly starting to charge the second battery or???
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
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  2. #2
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    What is the flashing sequence , flashing red 1/2/3/4 times then green or other ?
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    What is the flashing sequence , flashing red 1/2/3/4 times then green or other ?
    Yes, as you said, which indicated charging, but why suddenly out of the blue after an hours driving - surely the headlights and fridge on can be easily handled by the alternator while driving.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  4. #4
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    Remember - you have a BMS in the vehicle now.
    I’ll hazard a guess that the vehicle decided to ramp up the alternator and kick the voltage up.

  5. #5
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    Which system do you have,is it the DT 90?

    If so mine will only do that once engine is off,and voltage has dropped to around 12.7V from memory.
    So seems strange yours did it while driving.

    Tim will probably swing in soon and reply.

  6. #6
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    Hi Gavin, was the LED flashing Red/Green rapidly or flashing a number of Short Red Flashes and then one longer Green?

    There are two reasons for the LED to go from dull Green to a number of Short Red flashers then a single Green.

    1. ) Your BMS has decided your “Cranking” battery is fully charged and has lowered the operating voltage of the alternator. This is quite a common occurrence.

    2. ) Your alternator is on it’s way out. A not so common event.

    If your LED is constantly flashing Red/Green/Red/Green, your alternator is running at more than 15.5v. This can happen in cold, VERY cold conditions and is usually something that only happens in Northern Europe or Canada, in winter, but how cold was it when this happened?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Gavin, was the LED flashing Red/Green rapidly or flashing a number of Short Red Flashes and then one longer Green?

    There are two reasons for the LED to go from dull Green to a number of Short Red flashers then a single Green.

    1. ) Your BMS has decided your “Cranking” battery is fully charged and has lowered the operating voltage of the alternator. This is quite a common occurrence.

    2. ) Your alternator is on it’s way out. A not so common event.

    If your LED is constantly flashing Red/Green/Red/Green, your alternator is running at more than 15.5v. This can happen in cold, VERY cold conditions and is usually something that only happens in Northern Europe or Canada, in winter, but how cold was it when this happened?

    Thanks Tim and 90% sure makes sense and is your 1) - for reasons explained in my original post.

    As an aside, I've had the same issue as your second example of don't let the auto elec near installation in the other post, in that I've just found out (on this trip - silly me should have checked prior) that neither rear CIG plug works to keep the fridge running when ignition is off. Such is life and will be going back to the sparky with a printed copy of your website explanation!
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    Which system do you have,is it the DT 90?

    If so mine will only do that once engine is off,and voltage has dropped to around 12.7V from memory.
    So seems strange yours did it while driving.

    Tim will probably swing in soon and reply.

    Newly fitted SC80 - and more info in subsequent post after Tim's.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  9. #9
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    Hi again Gavin, and quick question, do you have the switch on the In-Cab Module set towards the LED or set away from the LED.


    Under normal operation, the switch should be sent away from the LED and this allows the cranking battery to assist your auxiliary battery in supplying power for your accessories while the motor is off.


    By doing this, when you start your motor, because the “cranking battery” is possibly down a bit, your D4’s BMS ( Battery Monitoring System ) will “see” that the cranking battery is not fully charged and will run the alternator at a higher voltage for a longer time.


    This action rapidly charges both batteries at the same time.


    If the switch is left set towards the LED, your cranking battery can be kept in a near fully charged state, most of the time, depending on your driving habits and this can mean that in a shorter driving time the BMS will determine the cranking battery is fully charged and it will lower the operating voltage more often, and why your may be seeing your SC80’s LED flashing the way it is.


    Another cause of this is when you have fully charged your batteries with a battery charger and then gone for a drive. Again, because your D4’s BMS sees the cranking battery is fully charged, the BMS lowers the voltage to reduce fuel consumption.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    If your LED is constantly flashing Red/Green/Red/Green, your alternator is running at more than 15.5v. This can happen in cold, VERY cold conditions and is usually something that only happens in Northern Europe or Canada, in winter, but how cold was it when this happened?
    ive had this happen adelaide hills about zero degrees. only in the 1st min or two of driving.
    and i cant remember how i checked, but voltage was more like 14.95/15.0
    Current Cars:
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