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Thread: Cranking battery health

  1. #1
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    Cranking battery health

    I have a Traxide DBS installed, with an optima yellow top as the second battery. Mostly just to run a fridge in the back of the car.
    Drove 8 hrs yesterday, and expected both batteries to be at full charge when we stopped. Per the image, the cranking battery was only at about 12.4V.
    Does this mean the cranking battery is on its way out? It’s probably about 3 years old, and haven’t had much longer than that out of my main batteries.
    Just starting on a long camping trip, so would rather replace now than get stuck on the bush!


    Any advice greatly appreciated!

    BADE318C-89CC-452B-B785-C2788A548E99.jpg
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
    ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
    ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.

  2. #2
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    To get a true state of charge (SOC) reading from a lead acid battery you need to let it sit for about half an hour after charging, then take a multimeter reading with it disconnected from any load. If you're taking a reading with your IID tool then it wont be accurate as the battery has a load on it.

    Battery-state-of-charge-for-Wet-and-AGM.png

  3. #3
    josh.huber Guest
    Put them back into ignition mode on the traxide and see how they separate, I've had an aux kill my main before

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by TopEndThom View Post
    To get a true state of charge (SOC) reading from a lead acid battery you need to let it sit for about half an hour after charging, then take a multimeter reading with it disconnected from any load. If you're taking a reading with your IID tool then it wont be accurate as the battery has a load on it.

    Battery-state-of-charge-for-Wet-and-AGM.png
    Thanks for the chart.
    I’ve got Bluetooth battery monitors on both batteries, so they should be accurate (non-loaded) readings.
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
    ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
    ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.

  5. #5
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    Disconnect the aux then see how it goes, just replaced my main after 6-7 years and although it would charge up if it sat for a few days it would struggle. My aux was keeping it afloat but the cold weather didnt help. New exide extreme and it fires up instantly.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
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    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  6. #6
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    How’s your voltage when driving?

    I noticed my alternator was on its way out by the output slowly slipping down, to about 12.8 at one point. Couldn’t properly charge the batteries with that!

    Otherwise agree the optima would be my suspect…

    Take a look at the SSB battery range, should you need to swap out. I have these for both starting and aux now - and subjectivity think they are better than the varta and yellow top they replaced…
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

  7. #7
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    Hi Ghost, have you carried out any additional testing yet?

    From the graph, your alternator is fine, but after such a long drive, your batteries should have been higher at rest.

    I noticed they were lower than 12.4v prier to you starting your motor.

    How much diving have you done in the last few months?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by veebs View Post
    How’s your voltage when driving?

    I noticed my alternator was on its way out by the output slowly slipping down, to about 12.8 at one point. Couldn’t properly charge the batteries with that!

    Otherwise agree the optima would be my suspect…

    Take a look at the SSB battery range, should you need to swap out. I have these for both starting and aux now - and subjectivity think they are better than the varta and yellow top they replaced…
    My Bosch cranker just started giving up this past couple of weeks. SSB88ti on its way.

  9. #9
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    Dual battery

    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Ghost, have you carried out any additional testing yet?

    From the graph, your alternator is fine, but after such a long drive, your batteries should have been higher at rest.

    I noticed they were lower than 12.4v prier to you starting your motor.

    How much diving have you done in the last few months?
    Hi Tim

    Things I’ve done:
    - disconnected both batteries from each other (removed +ve lead from aux) , then had auto elec use a battery tester. Both batteries came up as “OK, needs charging”.
    - been drinking most days whilst on holidays, so battery gets a bit of charge.
    - been using solar panels when stationary for a few hours (& the sun’s out!) - btw thanks for taking my call and advising on charging via the Anderson plug!

    But both batteries seem to settle around 12.4V after driving, and then go down overnight as the fridge runs. Both batteries will be around 12.0 - 12.1V by morning, so unless I drive or use solar, not enough charge to last another day.

    The other thing I noticed is that when the car is off, and I open a door, the main battery seems to drop about 0.2-0.3V. It comes back up after a while (assuming all computers back to sleep), but always a bit lower than before opening the door - it opening the door definitely ’flattens the battery’.

    Both batteries are probably 3 years old (or more?)

    I’ve put a screenshot of a typical day, fridge running over night, 2 batteries isolate, you can see when we open the door on the car in the morning, then driving, fridge running etc…

    any conclusions or advice greatly appreciated!!! Thanks0281FF90-BF70-4D47-A8AD-92E4F76BA210.jpg
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
    ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
    ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost-Who-Walks View Post
    Hi Tim

    Things I’ve done:
    - disconnected both batteries from each other (removed +ve lead from aux) , then had auto elec use a battery tester. Both batteries came up as “OK, needs charging”.
    - been drinking most days whilst on holidays, so battery gets a bit of charge.
    - been using solar panels when stationary for a few hours (& the sun’s out!) - btw thanks for taking my call and advising on charging via the Anderson plug!

    But both batteries seem to settle around 12.4V after driving, and then go down overnight as the fridge runs. Both batteries will be around 12.0 - 12.1V by morning, so unless I drive or use solar, not enough charge to last another day.

    The other thing I noticed is that when the car is off, and I open a door, the main battery seems to drop about 0.2-0.3V. It comes back up after a while (assuming all computers back to sleep), but always a bit lower than before opening the door - it opening the door definitely ’flattens the battery’.

    Both batteries are probably 3 years old (or more?)

    I’ve put a screenshot of a typical day, fridge running over night, 2 batteries isolate, you can see when we open the door on the car in the morning, then driving, fridge running etc…

    any conclusions or advice greatly appreciated!!! Thanks0281FF90-BF70-4D47-A8AD-92E4F76BA210.jpg
    Hi again Ghost and your voltage level is excellent while you are driving but the batteries settle to quickly to a lower voltage then they should after such a long drive.

    Everything is pointing to your batteries being down on capacity and my guess is that they a sulphated.

    This does not mean they are damaged, they just need some maintenance charging.

    If you have a battery charger with you, when ever you are at a powered site, run the charger, and run it all night and every night you get a chance to.

    This will slowly desulphate your batteries, which will not only increase their capacity, it will allow them to recharge faster when you are driving.

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