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Thread: Dual Battery Charging Behaviour

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    winglen is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Dual Battery Charging Behaviour

    Interesting battery charging behaviour I’ve recently noticed.

    I have a MY16 D4 with a Traxide D4-5S dual battery kit, with a yellow top Optima, now 4.5 years old. Cranking battery replaced at end of warranty period so now 2.5 years. Regularly charge from the rear Anderson with a 5A CTEK. Have the BM2 Bluetooth monitors.

    The interesting bahaviour is how the aux lags the cranking battery. When left sitting, the aux routinely slightly above the cranking by 0.15V, but when charging, is 1.5V lower. A couple of snapshots attached, one for a 7 day window, the other one day for more detail. The spikes are short drives, the other variations being the CTEK going through its paces.

    Question: Is this lag a sign of SC80 cleverness or an indication the Optima is nearing end of life?

    Was going to ask Tim (Drivesafe) direct but thought the answer might be useful to others here. I’m presuming I’m going to need to isolate, charge and get a true resting SOC for each to get a confident answer on the Optima which is probably at the end of its life based on other posts here.



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    Try swapping the battery monitors over, or connect both to the same battery. I suspect one is giving incorrect voltage readings.
    2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
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    I have yet to find battery monitors that give exactly the same readings as each other.
    Ron

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    Quote Originally Posted by RHS58 View Post
    I have yet to find battery monitors that give exactly the same readings as each other.
    Mine are fairly close.
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    2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
    2003, Discovery 2a, Td5 Manual, Zambezi Silver (2012-2018)
    2007, Adventure Offroad Campers, Grand Tourer (2015-Now)

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    Quote Originally Posted by winglen View Post
    Was going to ask Tim (Drivesafe) direct but thought the answer might be useful to others here.
    Hi wingless and always a good move to post up this sort of question here. As you posted, it WILL help others.

    As suggested, try swopping the BM2 over. They are very much the same activity just at a constantly deferent voltage.

    I have 12 BM2s in use in my vehicles ( including a ride-on mower ) ad they are all within 0.04v of each other.

    Also, what position is the switch on your nIn-Cab Module? Set towards the LED or away from the LED?

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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    I have 12 BM2s in use in my vehicles ( including a ride-on mower ) ad they are all within 0.04v of each

    A sure fire way to confirm someone is a battery enthusiast… monitoring the mower :-)
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

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    winglen is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Dual Battery Charging Behaviour

    Thanks for all your comments so far.

    I really doubt it’s dodgy monitors, as the difference is not constant, but rather above or below consistently whether resting or charging. I’ll swap over the monitors tomorrow when I get time.

    Meanwhile, I’ve kept the batteries on continuous charge for the moment, and the lag is getting closer, now within 0.07V. It looks to me like battery behaviour maybe with the Optima only coming up on a really long slow charge. See current figures below.

    And Tim, my Traxide is a 2017 unit so no in cab switch. I wish I did!


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    Hi again Winglen, a simple test for the BM2s is to put them both on one battery for a day or two, and see how close they are.

    With the way they are showing voltages now, I think you are correct in that it is most likely not the BM2s.

    I suggest you try charging both batteries over night, for a few nights because, even with a problem, they should still be settling to similar voltage levels, and yours were not.

    Once you have the batteries charged, get back on the thread and we can do some load testing to see if there is a problem with the isolator, or as I suspect, the cabling.

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    winglen is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post

    With the way they are showing voltages now, I think you are correct in that it is most likely not the BM2s.

    I suggest you try charging both batteries over night, for a few nights because, even with a problem, they should still be settling to similar voltage levels, and yours were not.

    Once you have the batteries charged, get back on the thread and we can do some load testing to see if there is a problem with the isolator, or as I suspect, the cabling.
    So left on charge for 2 days. And while the aux was below the main by 0.22V for half a day or so, it then jumped up and settled to within 0.06V, as predicted.

    Took off the charger and left car double locked for 3 days and no keys near it. After an hour, cranking settled to 12.70V, aux above it at 12.85. After 3 days, cranking down to 12.34 (or 0.12/day), aux down to 12.57, the gap between the two increasing steadily. Isolator green light on always so batteries linked.

    Given the charging readings settled so close, I think we can take the relative BM2 numbers as reliable. Just interesting behaviour that the cranking battery is higher under charge, lower at rest.

    BM2 graph for the last 5 days attached.


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    If you have not driven your D4 yet, leave it for another day or two if you can.

    I would like to see what happens when the isolator turns off.

    I suspect your batteries need a few more charge cycles as they seem to be discharging a bit quickly.

    The isolator will draw power and is likely the cause of the voltage drop, but yours is dropping too quickly for supposedly full charged batteries.

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