Thread: 2.7 TDV6 EGR coolant system delete

Plates collected on Friday and will now start playing...

Will work out the fittings needed to remove the pipework and join hoses where necessary and should see some progress soon.

Cheers

Just to continue this thread as last time Tombie was going down this path...

I did a video of the layout as much as I can work it out.

The video is a link only so it wont show up in my normal video list.
When I mention "device" you can work out what I mean.

Discovery 3 cooling system circuit - YouTube

Heres how I did mine on a 05 D3 - so covers the early 2005-2007 models

The factory temp sensor location could also be deleted if you used the later top main hose I guess - would obviously need an extension to the wiring for the different location of the temp sensor - that could simplify the deletion of the EGR cooler line

Excellent information guys!

Better drawings here of EU4 version;

Lrcat

Lrcat

The smaller valley coolant outlet pipe that is long loops down and across the radiator to feed the heater matrix. The matrix return pipe supplies the EGRs via a T to the top EGR crossover pipe.

The matrix return hose, after the T to the EGR, continues to the main thermostat unit looking at these drawings closely.

Dazza, it would be very interesting to know what is in those two Ts if thermostat or one way valve?

The EGR return crossover underneath dumps down in a single hose into a larger T to the large bottom radiator hose.

So in the simplest world you need to bridge the EGR supply hose to the EGR dump hose down at the bottom of the hose bundle to eliminate the EGRs while retaining this heater matrix return loop and leave all the heater hoses and Ts unmolested.

Problem is so many piping variables across different models and Fuel Burning Heater which is why these videos are so useful.





The matrix return pipe underneath connects to main thermostat??

Yeah… nice work lads.

I’ve been doing everything but working on the vehicles lately and haven’t done anything but oil changes / services.

Once the weather settles down I should be able to get in the shed for a bit of LR action.

Hi Guys,

So I'm about to attempt to complete this on my TDV6 2010 2.7 D4.
I have oily gunk in my coolant so I'm under the impression I have a failed EGR cooler... I also have oil in the V so I'm under the impression I also have a failed Oil Cooler.

In order to complete these jobs I thought it best to remove the body.
Luckily I have a hoist and space at work to be able to do this.

I've previously had the EGRs blanked so I think the coolant delete makes sense, but looking for any input here.
If anyone has any kits, drawings or ideas I'm happy to test and take pictures while I have the body off.

I can report success. Mine is EU4 like yours. I changed the radiator and hoses at same time so access was perfect.

I’d suggest you probably have an oil cooler issue rather than EGR. They all do.

I left the EGRs and coolers installed but blanked at the outlet side with pipes to air intake removed and ECU disabled.

I just cut and plugged the inlet cooling pipe and capped off where the return hose joins back into the cabin heater pipe work per my note above.

I left pipe work in place just carefully secured the ends.

I bought 19mm radiator hose joiners and caps from SCA/Repco. These were great.

The supply side hose starts at 21mm off the main branch and becomes 19mm. It curls behind the radiator cowl on drivers side so cut at the 19mm side and I secured to the cowl with a cable tie out the way of the fan.

Have been driving for 12 months and no issues. Very hard to notice any difference in real world driving. I thought warm up was slower but you tend to nurse it when checking these things and it seems slower.

You don’t need to body off.

If you’ve never removed the radiator cowl note that the radiator hoses are all clipped to the lower part of the cowl you reach up from below and unclip them. They organise everything nicely and confirm you have everything in correct location on reinstalling.

The return hose Ts in you can access on the side inspection panel behind drivers side tyre. I capped it here and left the return hose strapped to its neighbours.

One day I’ll remove the top crossover pipe when next working in there. EGR cooler removal requires a manifold blanking solution which seems a whole lot of extra work.

Here’s the radiator hose layout. It does not show the heater matrix hoses which are seperate.



Here’s where I cut the EGR supply and capped it. Ignore that I have joined a hose to it in this photo (bridging the inlet and outlet is a definite fail).



Here’s the return hose disconnected and I capped off where it goes on to the heater matrix hose group.



PM or call if you want more detail.

Hi,

Thanks for the quick followup!
I have the body off and I've applied air pressure to the coolers via coolant channels which over the course of half an hour had no leak off and stayed at a constant 6psi.

I also spoke to Triumph rover spares who recommended against removing the coolers as it will take the car way too long to warm up in the winter.
So now I'm in two minds about preforming this mod, just wondered what your experience has been?

I've also found a V full of oil and Coolant so I'm pretty sure my issues are a cross between the plastic coolant outlet at the top front of the engine being split and a failed oil cooler.