Thread: 2005 V8 HSE Multiple Faults and getting to know the gap tool

The shifter has no mechanical contact with the PCB so it must be a hall effect or similar, I think the board gets fried them produces the fault.
I couldn't find any burnt or damaged traces on mine but replacement did fix it.

I couldnt see a way of removing the board so I assume its a replace the whole thing. I found a couple around. Can you get the cable out without having to release on the transmission end? I couldnt see a way today. I'm hoping that you can but it looked like you need to pull the whole cable out. I'll take a closer look at Land Rovers drawings.

Originally Posted by timdo1

I couldnt see a way of removing the board so I assume its a replace the whole thing. I found a couple around. Can you get the cable out without having to release on the transmission end? I couldnt see a way today. I'm hoping that you can but it looked like you need to pull the whole cable out. I'll take a closer look at Land Rovers drawings.

It slides out the front once you undo the 2 or 3 screws from the side, the cable has a retaining clip then it will lever out.
I couldn't find any reference to the board itself so the whole shifter will need to be replaced.

Can anyone explain to me how I find what relay r211, 260 & 267 is in relation to the relay numbers on the car. Its on page 88 of the land rover electrical diagrams. It looks like it supplies power to the central Junction box and there is links to washers and brakes. I'm wondering if any of these are kaput and stuck on but its hard to know which to replace because the numbers on the diagram don't match the numbers on the car.

Is there a document anywhere that marries the fuse box relays with the numbers on the car?

If you think it's a stuck relay, why not take the "scatter gun" approach and shut the car down, then one by one pull relays until things switch off?

I have a different diagram to you obviously as I have no relays on page 88.

R211 - Ignition Relay is switched from an ignition line from the CJB. It powers heated seats, the lights and the climate control module. - Don't know which relay

R260 - Brake boost pump. My TDV6 doesn't have one, so that slot is open. - R11

R267 - Heated mirrors and washer jets. - R4

EN-Discovery3-blok-kapot-2-439x1024.jpg

Here's something I put together a while ago. E is engine box and J is CJB. Some I haven't had a chance to bell out and confirm some of them "??". Most of the CJB relays are internal. One day I'll get a defunct CJB to dismantle and document.

Code:

E R102 - Starter            - R18
E R103 - Fuel Pump            - R8
E R114 - Glow Plug A            - R15
E R114 - Glow Plug B            - R17
E R116 - ECM                - R6
E R130 - Front fog lamp            - R5
E R139 - Power Wash            - R12??
E R176 - Blower relay            - R16
E R208 - Heated front screen        - R9
E R211 - Ignition            - R13?
E R214 - Blower rear            - R10
E R225 - Suspension            - R7
E R231 - Wiper On / Off - SPDT        - R3?
E R232 - Wiper fast / slow - SPDT    - R2?
E R260 - Brake boost pump        - R11?
E R267 - Heated washer jets / mirrors    - R4

J R125 - Side lamp
J R132 - Lighter            - R3
J R133 - Horn
J R138 - Heated rear screen
J R143 - Window lift
J R203 - Accessory Socket        - R1
J R217 - Reverse
J R222 - HDC - Extrernal resistor
J R249 - Infotainment            - R5
J R250 - Battery saver
J R257 - Fuel flap Lock - SPDT
J R258 - Fuel flap unlock - SPDT
J R259 - Wash pump - Complex Page 130
J R261 - CDL Lock - SPDT
J R262 - Driver Lock - SPDT
J R263 - Superlock - SPDT
J R265 - CDL Return 1 - SPDT
J R265 - CDL Return 2 - SPDT
J R274 - Auto lights

R229 - Seat

Originally Posted by BradC

Here's something I put together a while ago. E is engine box and J is CJB. Some I haven't had a chance to bell out and confirm some of them "??". Most of the CJB relays are internal. One day I'll get a defunct CJB to dismantle and document.

Code:

E R102 - Starter            - R18
E R103 - Fuel Pump            - R8
E R114 - Glow Plug A            - R15
E R114 - Glow Plug B            - R17
E R116 - ECM                - R6
E R130 - Front fog lamp            - R5
E R139 - Power Wash            - R12??
E R176 - Blower relay            - R16
E R208 - Heated front screen        - R9
E R211 - Ignition            - R13?
E R214 - Blower rear            - R10
E R225 - Suspension            - R7
E R231 - Wiper On / Off - SPDT        - R3?
E R232 - Wiper fast / slow - SPDT    - R2?
E R260 - Brake boost pump        - R11?
E R267 - Heated washer jets / mirrors    - R4

J R125 - Side lamp
J R132 - Lighter            - R3
J R133 - Horn
J R138 - Heated rear screen
J R143 - Window lift
J R203 - Accessory Socket        - R1
J R217 - Reverse
J R222 - HDC - Extrernal resistor
J R249 - Infotainment            - R5
J R250 - Battery saver
J R257 - Fuel flap Lock - SPDT
J R258 - Fuel flap unlock - SPDT
J R259 - Wash pump - Complex Page 130
J R261 - CDL Lock - SPDT
J R262 - Driver Lock - SPDT
J R263 - Superlock - SPDT
J R265 - CDL Return 1 - SPDT
J R265 - CDL Return 2 - SPDT
J R274 - Auto lights

R229 - Seat

Thats what scares me. I'm thinking that relay R211 inside the Battery Junction box is closing after I shut the ignition down. If I keep my foot on the brake switch it doesn't happen. I'm worried that R211 is inside the Battery Junction box and its faulty. GRRR.

Hope I'm wrong, Its going to be hard to replace that box. Everything else seems to have an origin except this.

I read that you put a new brake switch in, are these polarity based? Might explain why everything works with your foot on the brake. If the polarity was reversed, to me it should work as per 'normal' ...