Can't answer that and don't intend to hijack, but for another option I used these : Polmex on both of mine rather than crack the case.
The soft bits of my RRS (same as D3) key fobs have finally fallen to bits - fobs still work as you can push the little micro switch on the circuit board.
I have new cases to go and the the two halves just screw together with the old electronics inside. The issue is the original units seem to be sealed with no obvious way of separating the shells with out destruction. So do I just get the dremel cutter out and carefully go to town on the old fob or are there tricks for new players that I need to know about.
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Can't answer that and don't intend to hijack, but for another option I used these : Polmex on both of mine rather than crack the case.
Hi 101RRS,
I have rebuilt two D3 key fobs with 100% success using the tutorial I found in our 'sister' forum in the UK.
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - both key fobs not working - help
I thoroughly recommend that you do the following:
1. Go to Battery World and buy a Panasonic rechargeable battery. Part number is in the thread. (You do not want to have to 'jail break' the fob again just to change a battery.) They will solder the new battery in place for you. Great service.
2. Go on eBay and buy a silicon protective cover for the new fob. It seems that body oil and daily wear & tear make the original key pad susceptible to cracking. It is not very thick. (You will need a small cable tie to stop the protective cover falling off when you're not watching. It is not obtrusive. 6 years later for my one. All good. It felt like a 'win.' (Read the next part)
Venting: As an aside, I do not know why Land Rover thought that the key fob had to be 100% completely water proof, yet had a p*** weak, silicon rubber key pad designed into it! I have a perfectly good, 16 year old, solid button, ABS key-fob, for our family's other car, a Volvo XC70. It has had 4 battery changes in its life. They cost $3 each and took 20 seconds to execute. Made by Valeo. It is 'Fit for Purpose', which is the definition of Good Quality. Land Rover sometimes loses sight of what 'durability' really means.
Best wishes,
Jeffoir
98 Disco 1 V8 (Gone) Young family; so much fun..
00 Disco 2 V8 (Gone) Mrs Jeffoir's..
02 Disco 2 V8 (Gone) What a lovely exhaust note..
07 Disco 3 TDV6 Still going strong..
12 Disco 4 SDV6 Mrs Jeffoir's..
13 Disco 4 SDV6 Great days lie ahead Comrades..
Until I ordered new fobs and they arrived as screw together units I did as you asked - out with the dremel. Remember less is more so gently, gently does it. I used to attack the long edges first, particularly the one where the key rests upon retraction. Once I was able to use a screwdriver to prize it apart slightly so the key-ring holder dropped out I would then start on the key-ring end (opposite to the key). Happy dremeling!![]()
Cheers, Dale
PIC - It comes with the Territory
'The D3' - 2006 TDV6 HSE
2008 Kimberley Kamper Sports RV
Previously Enjoyed:
2002 Adventure Offroad Campers 'Cape York'
2000 D2 Td5 - plus!
1997 Defender 110 Wagon - fully carpeted
Ok guys thanks for the information.
I found this link on the UK sites and will follow it
https://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/al...Fob%20Case.pdf
I did a ebay search on those silicon covers but nothing comes up.
I am not sure how those Polmex things work on the original covers - I assume you still have to cut open the case and then cut out the old buttons and put in the Polmex ones and then somehow rejoin the the butchered case back together.
I have a set of new cases so will just use those.
My original cases have lasted well - now nearly 15 years.
Thanks for the input much appreciated.
Cheers
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
The old rubber is peeled off thoroughly leaving three openings with buttons under them and the silicone replacement "pops" in. It took a bit of finessing to make sure all the old rubber was removed, but it didn't take long. No need to open the case.
I'd already used Polmex replacements for other car remotes, so I thought it was worth a try. Worked well enough to convince me to do the spare also. I wouldn't drop it in the pool, but I can't see how it'd leak.
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